46 replies to this topic

[dapimp]

As above has anyone got any pics or a guide as to how to replace? I've had them in the shed for a while now and would like to replace but don't want to undertake without a guide or how to do it etc. Any help would be appreciated. Ta.

[slindborg]

jack car up, take wheels off, replace bolts to required torque for the grade of bolts being used, refit wheels, lower to floor. DONE If you feel you cant do the job without a guide, I really think you should pay someone to do it.

[Ouchie]

Um, they are bolts. They undo and do up again Replace one bolt at a time, it's easier and shims won't fall out or get lost easily. You will need a tap set to clean out the threads once the old bolts are out - this contradicts the above shortcut though. Best to use some locktight stuff on the new bolts. Tools: Jack Wheel nut remover and key Hex head bit (6mm???) Ratchet Possibly a long handled ratchet or long bar for tough bolts Fronts are easier than the rears due to being able to play with steering angle to aid access.

Edited by Ouchie, 14 February 2011 - 05:39 PM.

[Kev S]

Um, they are bolts. They undo and do up again


Replace one bolt at a time, it's easier and shims won't fall out or get lost easily.
You will need a tap set to clean out the threads once the old bolts are out - this contradicts the above shortcut though.
Best to use some locktight stuff on the new bolts.

Tools:
Jack
Wheel nut remover and key
Hex head bit (6mm???)
Ratchet
Possibly a long handled ratchet or long bar for tough bolts


Fronts are easier than the rears due to being able to play with steering angle to aid access.

I've got a set of these, 10.9 grade to fit. Anyone know the size and thread pitch for the tap?
While I at it and as I need to but a tap set, anyone know what size and pitch for the wheel bolts - my bolts are in a state need to replace but not worth it unless I clean out the hub.

[oblomov]

One of mine (rear nearside front bolt) has rounded when Courtenays tried (and failed) to remove it. Any suggestions as to how to get it out anyone.

[Zoobeef]

One of mine (rear nearside front bolt) has rounded when Courtenays tried (and failed) to remove it. Any suggestions as to how to get it out anyone.

Hammer in a Torx bit thats a very tight fit, never let me down.

[iVXT]

Are the mentioned 10.9 grade bolts a standard fit on a vxt or are these an uprated item? If uprated bolts are they a recommended upgrade? Thanks in advance.

[starlight]

Are the mentioned 10.9 grade bolts a standard fit on a vxt or are these an uprated item?

If uprated bolts are they a recommended upgrade?

Thanks in advance.

The 10.9 are uprated items. I think standard fit was something like 8.8 . Basically the 8.8 are more likely to stretch or shear than the 10.9.

Yes they are recommended. I think 'CLIFFIE' can still supply them - send him a PM

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

up to you but there is a picture somewhere of mine being tow away from the national 2010
done all the work now and feel more confident

[oblomov]

One of mine (rear nearside front bolt) has rounded when Courtenays tried (and failed) to remove it. Any suggestions as to how to get it out anyone.

Hammer in a Torx bit thats a very tight fit, never let me down.

Yes, thanks, that's top of my list to try, perhaps with some heat also. I just wondered if there were any other ideas. I'm also wondering if there's enough room to get sufficient swing at the torx to hammer it in or if I may have to remove the tie rod end. Failing that I may have to drill bolt head out and separate it that way. I really don't want to have to go down that route though.

[TheStotts]

Are the mentioned 10.9 grade bolts a standard fit on a vxt or are these an uprated item?

If uprated bolts are they a recommended upgrade?

Thanks in advance.

The 10.9 are uprated items. I think standard fit was something like 8.8 . Basically the 8.8 are more likely to stretch or shear than the 10.9.

Yes they are recommended. I think 'CLIFFIE' can still supply them - send him a PM

If Cliffie doesn't have any give me a shout as I have a set left over from the group buy.

I ended up getting a set of 12.9s fitted by Guglielmi, overkill perhaps but was getting lots of other work done and he threw them in for free. As it happened 2 of the old bolts sheered and needed to be drilled out Not sure how common this is but glad I didn't try to change them myself

[Mike (Cliffie)]

The 10.9 is the recommended upgrade, the 12.9 have a higher torsional shear but lower lateral shear. Sadly not in stock but will order another batch soon.

[Ouchie]

One of mine (rear nearside front bolt) has rounded when Courtenays tried (and failed) to remove it. Any suggestions as to how to get it out anyone.

Hammer in a Torx bit thats a very tight fit, never let me down.

Yes, thanks, that's top of my list to try, perhaps with some heat also. I just wondered if there were any other ideas. I'm also wondering if there's enough room to get sufficient swing at the torx to hammer it in or if I may have to remove the tie rod end. Failing that I may have to drill bolt head out and separate it that way. I really don't want to have to go down that route though.

Access to rears is tricky so probably no room to swing a hammer with suitable force, undoing the tie rod is also a pain but will mean you can swing the hub around. The handbrake cable causes issues too.

Edited by Ouchie, 15 February 2011 - 11:52 AM.

[iVXT]

Are the mentioned 10.9 grade bolts a standard fit on a vxt or are these an uprated item?

If uprated bolts are they a recommended upgrade?

Thanks in advance.

The 10.9 are uprated items. I think standard fit was something like 8.8 . Basically the 8.8 are more likely to stretch or shear than the 10.9.

Yes they are recommended. I think 'CLIFFIE' can still supply them - send him a PM

If Cliffie doesn't have any give me a shout as I have a set left over from the group buy.

I ended up getting a set of 12.9s fitted by Guglielmi, overkill perhaps but was getting lots of other work done and he threw them in for free. As it happened 2 of the old bolts sheered and needed to be drilled out Not sure how common this is but glad I didn't try to change them myself

Can't multi quote on phone but thanks all. I'd have got a set off you (Cliffie) but shame your out of stock, hope you don't mind if I get the above set that are going spare from the group buy that I must of missed. I've got some uprated suspension to have fitted soon so would probably make sense to get the bolts changed at the same time.

Are there recommended torque settings for the 10.9 bolts or is it just a case of do them up tight?

Cheers.

[techieboy]

Are there recommended torque settings for the 10.9 bolts or is it just a case of do them up tight?

68Nm + threadlock

[starlight]

Are there recommended torque settings for the 10.9 bolts or is it just a case of do them up tight?

EVERY nut and bolt on body, engine, transmission, driveline, steering and suspension will have a recomended torque. The links to the manuals are on the site.

[slindborg]

Are there recommended torque settings for the 10.9 bolts or is it just a case of do them up tight?

EVERY nut and bolt on body, engine, transmission, driveline, steering and suspension will have a recomended torque. The links to the manuals are on the site.

Although just about all of the fasteners on the car can be done up by feel and no need to fcuk about with a torque wrench... Headbolts and HCB's get torque'd to the 'book' the rest is a touchy feely exercise

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Are there recommended torque settings for the 10.9 bolts or is it just a case of do them up tight?

EVERY nut and bolt on body, engine, transmission, driveline, steering and suspension will have a recomended torque. The links to the manuals are on the site.

Although just about all of the fasteners on the car can be done up by feel and no need to fcuk about with a torque wrench... Headbolts and HCB's get torque'd to the 'book' the rest is a touchy feely exercise

Ooooh a man after my own heart, I always tighten to F-Stop using the touchy feely method on my car. Of course customers cars are a different matter.

Edited by Cliffie, 15 February 2011 - 08:55 PM.

[Ormes]

If you feel you cant do the job without a guide, I really think you should pay someone to do it.

Borg, I agree with a lot of what you say (and like the succinct way in which you deliver it ) but you've said this a few times and totally disagree.

I first started working on my car when I saw some total chimps at kwik fit changing the brakes on my Laguna, and thought 'if they can do it then I am sure as hell I can'. If you do your research (as the OP is doing here), ensure you have all the tools you need and know what can go wrong and ensure you have contingency for those eventualities then fair fcuks for getting stuck in I say.

[oblomov]

One of mine (rear nearside front bolt) has rounded when Courtenays tried (and failed) to remove it. Any suggestions as to how to get it out anyone.

Hammer in a Torx bit thats a very tight fit, never let me down.

Yes, thanks, that's top of my list to try, perhaps with some heat also. I just wondered if there were any other ideas. I'm also wondering if there's enough room to get sufficient swing at the torx to hammer it in or if I may have to remove the tie rod end. Failing that I may have to drill bolt head out and separate it that way. I really don't want to have to go down that route though.

Access to rears is tricky so probably no room to swing a hammer with suitable force, undoing the tie rod is also a pain but will mean you can swing the hub around. The handbrake cable causes issues too.

Thanks for that, I'll get mu lump hammer out.