
Stage 3
#181
Posted 28 June 2011 - 01:14 PM
#182
Posted 28 June 2011 - 02:04 PM

Edited by astravxr, 28 June 2011 - 02:05 PM.
#184
Posted 28 June 2011 - 02:12 PM
Im booked in for thursday at Revline. £150 for a A-service is that not too cheap?He said he will also give the car a quick check over to see if theres any problems like manifold blowing etc
Check these out for comparison..seems good price?
My link
Ah right got mixed up, thought the A service was the most expensive one but its the other way round. A service is all i need isnt it? For 46k miles
#185
Posted 28 June 2011 - 02:49 PM
Im booked in for thursday at Revline. £150 for a A-service is that not too cheap?He said he will also give the car a quick check over to see if theres any problems like manifold blowing etc
Check these out for comparison..seems good price?
My link
Ah right got mixed up, thought the A service was the most expensive one but its the other way round. A service is all i need isnt it? For 46k miles
Bloody expensive for an oil change if you ask me

PS Cambelt at 40K - was it done?
#186
Posted 28 June 2011 - 02:54 PM
Well because rolling roads are used for mapping cars.
They also give out a lot more readings than just a bhp figure even on a power run.
But yes on the vx the turbo gauge gives an accurate bhp figure, accurate on several other cars also. It may be out by 20bhp max, but for a £90 tool its fcuking good!
have you never heard of an on the road dyno? Its a simple version of that. it takes all the readings fro the ecu (which is the main purpose of a turbo gauge to read the ecu) and calculates a bhp figure.
Yes RR are good for mapping but for calculating BHP they are pretty dodgy to say the least, and yet all the 'my cars more powerful than yours' brigade use them to 'prove' their power output. Hence the number of club RR days organised across the country. I find it even more implausibale that £90 or road dynos can be any more accurate. But what ever makes you happy....
#187
Posted 28 June 2011 - 03:07 PM
Well because rolling roads are used for mapping cars.
They also give out a lot more readings than just a bhp figure even on a power run.
But yes on the vx the turbo gauge gives an accurate bhp figure, accurate on several other cars also. It may be out by 20bhp max, but for a £90 tool its fcuking good!
have you never heard of an on the road dyno? Its a simple version of that. it takes all the readings fro the ecu (which is the main purpose of a turbo gauge to read the ecu) and calculates a bhp figure.
Yes RR are good for mapping but for calculating BHP they are pretty dodgy to say the least, and yet all the 'my cars more powerful than yours' brigade use them to 'prove' their power output. Hence the number of club RR days organised across the country. I find it even more implausibale that £90 or road dynos can be any more accurate. But what ever makes you happy....
if there is one thing the ecu knows, its how much air mass is going in, how much fuel its injected , and from the resulting bang, what the air/fuel mix is.
if you want a good rule of thumb, air flow (g/s) divided by 0.8 gives torque, or bhp
#188
Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:24 PM
Well because rolling roads are used for mapping cars.
They also give out a lot more readings than just a bhp figure even on a power run.
But yes on the vx the turbo gauge gives an accurate bhp figure, accurate on several other cars also. It may be out by 20bhp max, but for a £90 tool its fcuking good!
have you never heard of an on the road dyno? Its a simple version of that. it takes all the readings fro the ecu (which is the main purpose of a turbo gauge to read the ecu) and calculates a bhp figure.
Yes RR are good for mapping but for calculating BHP they are pretty dodgy to say the least, and yet all the 'my cars more powerful than yours' brigade use them to 'prove' their power output. Hence the number of club RR days organised across the country. I find it even more implausibale that £90 or road dynos can be any more accurate. But what ever makes you happy....
if there is one thing the ecu knows, its how much air mass is going in, how much fuel its injected , and from the resulting bang, what the air/fuel mix is.
if you want a good rule of thumb, air flow (g/s) divided by 0.8 gives torque, or bhp

P11 COV, how would you get a bhp figure then?
#189
Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:27 PM
Is this the right number for SPS Automotive - 01207 592998? I've tried ringing them for two days now and no answer
You have PM
#190
Posted 28 June 2011 - 10:34 PM
Well because rolling roads are used for mapping cars.
They also give out a lot more readings than just a bhp figure even on a power run.
But yes on the vx the turbo gauge gives an accurate bhp figure, accurate on several other cars also. It may be out by 20bhp max, but for a £90 tool its fcuking good!
have you never heard of an on the road dyno? Its a simple version of that. it takes all the readings fro the ecu (which is the main purpose of a turbo gauge to read the ecu) and calculates a bhp figure.
Yes RR are good for mapping but for calculating BHP they are pretty dodgy to say the least, and yet all the 'my cars more powerful than yours' brigade use them to 'prove' their power output. Hence the number of club RR days organised across the country. I find it even more implausibale that £90 or road dynos can be any more accurate. But what ever makes you happy....
if there is one thing the ecu knows, its how much air mass is going in, how much fuel its injected , and from the resulting bang, what the air/fuel mix is.
if you want a good rule of thumb, air flow (g/s) divided by 0.8 gives torque, or bhp
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P11 COV, how would you get a bhp figure then?
Why would I want one? 1/4 mile @ Santa Pod would do it.
#191
Posted 29 June 2011 - 01:52 PM
Im booked in for thursday at Revline. £150 for a A-service is that not too cheap?He said he will also give the car a quick check over to see if theres any problems like manifold blowing etc
Check these out for comparison..seems good price?
My link
Ah right got mixed up, thought the A service was the most expensive one but its the other way round. A service is all i need isnt it? For 46k miles
Bloody expensive for an oil change if you ask me![]()
PS Cambelt at 40K - was it done?
Dont think so but im not sure, i just know that the timing belt has been changed
#192
Posted 29 June 2011 - 06:01 PM
#193
Posted 29 June 2011 - 06:58 PM
#194
Posted 29 June 2011 - 07:01 PM
Just met the lad with my old VXR, its standard but stage 1 now so about 260bhp. From about 20mph i could pull about 3 car lengths but then the gap stopped, he couldnt catch up but i couldnt pull no more. Seems about right to me? Cant wait to get it sorted tomorrow though

#195
Posted 29 June 2011 - 07:17 PM
Depends how deep the swirls are.I used the Meguiars deep crystal swirl remover but its no use on deep swirls without a buffer.Depends on how good a job you want.I did not bother with the buffer but sounds like you may need to.Then its the HD wax to finish as you will know.Just met the lad with my old VXR, its standard but stage 1 now so about 260bhp. From about 20mph i could pull about 3 car lengths but then the gap stopped, he couldnt catch up but i couldnt pull no more. Seems about right to me? Cant wait to get it sorted tomorrow though
PS the paint is pissing me off, the rear end has been painted but the doors and front end is from factory. The standard paint has green bits in and the new paint is just black, you can tell a difference but it doesnt really bother me. What bothers me is that when i did a detail on my car the new paint on the back has gone all swirly and greesey/smudgy and looks like lots of nasty scratches. Im not a pro but i've done this loads of times and hasnt turned out like this, can anyone that can detail etc tell me how i can fix it? I started off with a clay bar which made it a bit smudgy then i polished it twice which sort of took it away and then i waxed it. I sort of blame the clay bar but i've used the same stuff on a few different cars and its fine. Is there anything i can do?
Edited by ghand, 29 June 2011 - 07:17 PM.
#196
Posted 29 June 2011 - 07:21 PM
Depends how deep the swirls are.I used the Meguiars deep crystal swirl remover but its no use on deep swirls without a buffer.Depends on how good a job you want.I did not bother with the buffer but sounds like you may need to.Then its the HD wax to finish as you will know.
Just met the lad with my old VXR, its standard but stage 1 now so about 260bhp. From about 20mph i could pull about 3 car lengths but then the gap stopped, he couldnt catch up but i couldnt pull no more. Seems about right to me? Cant wait to get it sorted tomorrow though
PS the paint is pissing me off, the rear end has been painted but the doors and front end is from factory. The standard paint has green bits in and the new paint is just black, you can tell a difference but it doesnt really bother me. What bothers me is that when i did a detail on my car the new paint on the back has gone all swirly and greesey/smudgy and looks like lots of nasty scratches. Im not a pro but i've done this loads of times and hasnt turned out like this, can anyone that can detail etc tell me how i can fix it? I started off with a clay bar which made it a bit smudgy then i polished it twice which sort of took it away and then i waxed it. I sort of blame the clay bar but i've used the same stuff on a few different cars and its fine. Is there anything i can do?
Not sure if the swirls are deep but in parts it looks smudgy

#197
Posted 29 June 2011 - 07:27 PM
the whole car is pretty dull

#198
Posted 29 June 2011 - 07:30 PM
the whole car is pretty dull
Starting to regret that i've bought it now
#199
Posted 29 June 2011 - 08:30 PM
Just met the lad with my old VXR, its standard but stage 1 now so about 260bhp. From about 20mph i could pull about 3 car lengths but then the gap stopped, he couldnt catch up but i couldnt pull no more. Seems about right to me? Cant wait to get it sorted tomorrow though
PS the paint is pissing me off, the rear end has been painted but the doors and front end is from factory. The standard paint has green bits in and the new paint is just black, you can tell a difference but it doesnt really bother me. What bothers me is that when i did a detail on my car the new paint on the back has gone all swirly and greesey/smudgy and looks like lots of nasty scratches. Im not a pro but i've done this loads of times and hasnt turned out like this, can anyone that can detail etc tell me how i can fix it? I started off with a clay bar which made it a bit smudgy then i polished it twice which sort of took it away and then i waxed it. I sort of blame the clay bar but i've used the same stuff on a few different cars and its fine. Is there anything i can do?
If it's fresh paint (and i mean within the last six months) then I wouldn't have been touching it with a claybar or polishing compound myself. Not sure what you can really do in the meantime - i presume it was baked long enough after application to fully cure?
And i assume you mean the car from the factory is Sapphire black, which is pearlescent, and the rear is now flat black. That's not good, and there's no real way to sort that except for a full respray.
G
#200
Posted 29 June 2011 - 10:29 PM



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