70 replies to this topic

[Muncher]

I was chatting to vocky at the weekend about how he has made his clam relatively easy to remove, the relays moved to the bulkhead and a multiplug to connect the boot wiring. The one thing that is a bit untidy, and to be honest a pain when you want to remove the clam is the locking mechanism, the wire cable runs behind my nimbus heat shielding meaning I shred my hands trying to remove it and re-install it. You then have the faff of re-aligning the boot mechanism every time. That got us thinking about removing the cable entirely and using a servo to unlock it. It turns out EliseParts sells a kit for the S1 Elise to do just that for £100, but you can also buy the servo itself for only £7 from Maplin, with everything you need costing less than £20. Has anyone else tried this before? I think I would fit the switch inside the door shut, and maybe one on the other side for the bonnet release so I can lose the stupid lever under the dash.

[Seb.F]

It sounds like a good idea. However. What happens if the servo fails? You're left hacking the boot open?

[Muncher]

I'd have a fail safe hook that you could pull via the wheel arch liner if need be.

[Seb.F]

In that case, sounds like a decent idea.. I may give something like this a go in the following weeks. Possibly do a dummy run on the bonnet first then try the boot.

[moneyhunster]

i bought an electric door release kit off ebay with a hefty solonoid as used in beetles etc. never thought about removing the old mechanism but seems like a good idea for clam removal. mines going to pop on the key fob and lift up on a small boot lifter, perfect for tesco shop i only paid about £20 for it.

Edited by moneyhunster, 28 June 2011 - 10:10 PM.

[Ouchie]

How would you open the bonnet if the battery is dead and the backup pull release breaks? I like the idea of aero catches but they look far from oem.

[moneyhunster]

How would you open the bonnet if the battery is dead and the backup pull release breaks?

good idea, just needs to be tweaked a bit!

[Muncher]

I can charge my car using my CTEK charger through the cigarette lighter so the battery going flat is no problem.

[soupdragon]

This also makes the boot more secure when you leave the vx with the roof off

[moneyhunster]

This also makes the boot more secure when you leave the vx with the roof off

good point

[smiley]

How would you open the bonnet if the battery is dead and the backup pull release breaks?

Same problem as when the current cable snaps i think

[Muncher]

http://wiki.seloc.or..._Release_for_S2 and the servo, £7.99 from Maplin: http://www.maplin.co...ck-motors-12304

[techieboy]

I was chatting to vocky at the weekend about how he has made his clam relatively easy to remove, the relays moved to the bulkhead and a multiplug to connect the boot wiring.

The one thing that is a bit untidy, and to be honest a pain when you want to remove the clam is the locking mechanism, the wire cable runs behind my nimbus heat shielding meaning I shred my hands trying to remove it and re-install it. You then have the faff of re-aligning the boot mechanism every time.

I was toying with that very idea on Sunday after wrecking my hand trying to get the locking mechanism out from behind my Nimbus heatshield as well. And doing a Vocky with the relays and lighting loom. But, wasn't sure how robust the solenoids were, given their potential exposure to heat and the elements, if it went into the engine bay though. Though it might be possible to fit in the actual boot and just drill a hole through the lock housing bulge bit. Might see if I can pick one up locally and give it a try at the weekend.

[techieboy]

Already got an emergency release for the front bonnet. Which is a good job as the handle came out a month or so back and in a fit of rage, I punched the crap out of it and properly broke it.

[Muncher]

I would have thought they're quite robust, a dab of grease on it will help and you could always put a double layer of nimbus over it if you know you don't need to take it off. Alternatively you could mount it away from the hot areas and use it to operate it via a length of cable, just like as standard, even mounting it where the relays are situated.

[techieboy]

Nice spot on the Maplins front. One reserved for collection tomorrow. Anyone know what kind of switch is needed to operate it - a momentary one, I guess?

[Muncher]

Yep, a momentary one. If you wanted to be really clever (and I'm not sure if this is possible) you could run it from a 12v feed which is only active once the alarm is disabled and then use the OEM switch in the same place as the VXT, just above the number plate next to the number plate lights. That means you can open it when the alarm is off without having to open any doors and when you are standing at the back of the car.

[techieboy]

Too clever (for me)!

[Muncher]

It just needs someone who is good with wiring diagrams to tell you where that wire is..... vocky?

[Ouchie]

The alarm has 2 wires for the the central locking, open and close, one of which could be used in conjunction with the release button to allow the boot to only open when the alarm is off. Probably best to make it work simply first then hook in the extra relay later. This post has the details on the alarm wiring used for central locking. Pins 6 and 2 on the alarm unit. http://www.vx220.org...post__p__925430