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Electric Boot Release


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#61 spider

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 12:17 PM

Following this topic with great interest, As Dbilas has messed up my locking cable AND have Nimbus and a big tube running over the top of the manifold supplying all the air from my Turbo to my manifold, so only 5 mil spacing for adjusting cables, therefor I drive around for more than a year with no lock at all and just A rubber catch to keep the lid sort of down, so yes I like the solution have looked at aerocatches, but this sounds even better, Speaking of sound can we do gas- shocks with the nice hissing sound from opening the battleship doors, yes! But what I miss in thetopic>>>>>>>> Pictures!! Thanks :-)

#62 Muncher

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 05:56 PM

I had a play with the actuator and it feels capable of opening the mechanism. It will be a lot easier to fit with the clam off so I may wait until I need it off.

#63 vocky

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Posted 02 July 2011 - 04:23 PM

just finished making my manual boot lock mechanism, I even matched the vx key to the new lock barrel :D just got to wait for a couple of mounting bolts to arrive and it will get fitted B) total cost so far .... £3 for the brand new boot lock from Billing VBOA show, bargain Imnotworthy

Edited by vocky, 02 July 2011 - 04:24 PM.


#64 vocky

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 04:19 PM

so weird being able to open the boot standing behind the car and so nice being able to lock the boot with the car key :D

#65 Muncher

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 04:21 PM

Where have you placed it Neil? Where the VXT button goes?

#66 vocky

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 06:54 PM

in the centre between the number plate lights, don't forget I have to have enough room to get the key into the lock and turn it :)

#67 FLD

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 07:45 PM

I'd like a setup like the elise. Lock on top, turn to open. Simple. Easy!

#68 techieboy

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 07:51 PM

Lock on top, turn to scratch and open. Simple. Easy!



Realised why my catch is such a cnut of a job. The boot mounted charge cooler header tank is fixed through the OEM heatshield and therefore means there's only about 5mm of flex in it to try and get your hand behind to grab the catch.

#69 spider

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 09:58 PM

pictures anyone?.............. :yeahthat:

#70 Daston

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 11:52 AM

Had a chat with my old man about this thread as he has just done a simular mod on his Griffith 500.

(I am not an electronics engineer so some of my terms might be wrong)
Mod-wise do a kit for the TVR that puts a micro switch in the door, when the car is unlocked the switch flicks to open and sends a signal to a receaver that can be placed anywhere behind the boot carpet. You then rub a magnet near the recerver and this then activates the solinoid unlocking the boot.

No cable needed just a few wires that could have a simple snap connection fitted in the boot to aid clam removal.

Here is the link to their website. Kit is £32 although you will need a solinoid for the boot release these can be had for around £30 as well.

http://www.djbeer.ho...t.com/id30.html

#71 Daston

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 11:52 AM

Had a chat with my old man about this thread as he has just done a simular mod on his Griffith 500.

(I am not an electronics engineer so some of my terms might be wrong)
Mod-wise do a kit for the TVR that puts a micro switch in the door, when the car is unlocked the switch flicks to open and sends a signal to a receaver that can be placed anywhere behind the boot carpet. You then rub a magnet near the recerver and this then activates the solinoid unlocking the boot.

No cable needed just a few wires that could have a simple snap connection fitted in the boot to aid clam removal.

Here is the link to their website. Kit is £32 although you will need a solinoid for the boot release these can be had for around £30 as well.

http://www.djbeer.ho...t.com/id30.html




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