70 replies to this topic

[Mangham54]

I had always fancied te lock mechanism as on the S2, but don't have any confidence in chopping into a panel without any 'go-faster bubbles'. However the ability to properly lock the bootlid and leave the roof off would be a big bonus. Or even be able to operate it without pissing about having to open the door and reach round to get back in the boot.

[FLD]

I guess we need a how to guide! I have been considering options for an easy off clam. I'd thought about hacking off the cross bar bit and leaving it attached to the car then reversing the two big side bolts. This would help with the easy off! I'm watching out for that guide. Who's first

Edited by FLD, 29 June 2011 - 04:47 PM.

[The Batman]

the only bad bolts that hold the clam on imo are the 4 inside the cabin, i have binned the speaker surround off so easy enough for me still not sure about fitting aero catch (wit lock) to the bootlid...

[TheHood]

I don't understand why you'd want to have extra electrical complexity when you could probably achieve the same result mechanically with cycle parts. I'm thinking something like cutting the bowden cable in two and mounting the ends on a plate with some kind of easily removed coupling?

[Muncher]

I don't understand why you'd want to have extra electrical complexity when you could probably achieve the same result mechanically with cycle parts.

I'm thinking something like cutting the bowden cable in two and mounting the ends on a plate with some kind of easily removed coupling?

That was my first thought, but then I thought I'd try and be clever seeing as it only cost me £17.

Removing my nimbus shielding, taking out the latch mechanism, dropping all the washers, slicing my hands open, refitting it, refitting the latch mechanism and spending ages playing Russian Roulette with the boot latch to see whether it will jam permanently shut at the first closing isn't my idea of fun!

[TheHood]

I don't understand why you'd want to have extra electrical complexity when you could probably achieve the same result mechanically with cycle parts.

I'm thinking something like cutting the bowden cable in two and mounting the ends on a plate with some kind of easily removed coupling?

That was my first thought, but then I thought I'd try and be clever seeing as it only cost me £17.

Removing my nimbus shielding, taking out the latch mechanism, dropping all the washers, slicing my hands open, refitting it, refitting the latch mechanism and spending ages playing Russian Roulette with the boot latch to see whether it will jam permanently shut at the first closing isn't my idea of fun!

Not my idea of "fun" neither, but you're going to encounter these joys regardless of if the mech involved is manually or electrically actuated.

I didn't pay that much attention to the amount of slack in the cable when I took my clam off, but I'm thinking bolting the plate somewhere accessible from the drivers side wheel arch before it disappears behind any shielding may work. If I CBA at the weekend I'll take a look, then have a word with my local cycle shop to see if it's feasible to re-terminate bowden cables reliably.

[vocky]

for me it serves two purposes; it makes the boot secure with the roof off it makes removing the rear clam even easier

[moneyhunster]

im gonna give this a go at the weekend, had my kit for 6 months

[jules_s]

Easiest mod for rear clam removal would be sizetenboots suggestion for Velcro on the front of the arch liners. My clam was replaced 7 years ago and the boot/alarm cables run just behind the heatshield directly under the lid. No problems in the years they've been there. I'm sure there are plenty of access panels that could be formed in the speaker shelf for accessing the inside bolts to stop having to remove the seats. Lining the boot catch up was the easiest job of the clam removal for me.

[techieboy]

You clearly haven't had to beef up your heatshielding with Nimbus to cope with a tubular manifold. The OEM stuff is fine and bends out of the way okay. The Nimbus just shreds your hands and makes access a total pain in the proverbial. My hand looks like the neighbourhood tom cat has been at it.

[jules_s]

You clearly haven't had to beef up your heatshielding with Nimbus to cope with a tubular manifold. The OEM stuff is fine and bends out of the way okay. The Nimbus just shreds your hands and makes access a total pain in the proverbial. My hand looks like the neighbourhood tom cat has been at it.

Lol

No clearly I haven't.....like 99% of other people on here

Why not extend the cable and run it through the boot, or is that another one of my daft ideas?

[Ouchie]

Here's another idea, change the way the nimbus is attached?

[techieboy]

Not likely. I'm putting more in there.

[Ouchie]

Drive slower and for only 10 minutes in every hour therefore generating less heat. It works for British Railfail

[techieboy]

[FLD]

Fold over 5mm of the edge of the nimbus and press flat. No sharp edges!

[techieboy]

I've done that but the fold is onto the face that butts up against the boot. So every time I try to wrestle the cnuting catch out, I get a shredding. Not even sure where half of it is at the moment as it fell down behind the Nimbus. Wiring is in for the switch. Mil-spec plug and socket just delivered for the new quick release loom into the boot. No relay box yet though. Emergency boot release in the form of a coil of stainless lock wire the same as I've done for the front attached. Can't get to the clam at the moment as it's stuck at the back of the garage but think the solenoid will live in the boot, right next to the catch mechanism.

[slindborg]

you should put a linear actuator on there so you can use the boot lid as an air brake/wing

[techieboy]

Pick me a couple up, next time you're at Pagani.

[slindborg]

They dont use them really... the 'wings' are done with normal rotary actuators But the Venom uses linears on its rear picnic table