152 replies to this topic

[techieboy]

1. I put it in a plastic pipe i built between the throttlebody and cone.
If you leave it dangeling, it will trigger eml code and fan continuous on.

I had no problems for the 6 months it was floating around in the engine bay.

[smiley]

I had no problems for the 6 months it was floating around in the engine bay.

Must be a speedster thing. Mine came on within 30 min. Fixed by refitting it.


@Anarchy is that a 120 alternator i see?
edit; missed your other topic. You're looking for a 100 i see. Good luck with that.

Edited by smiley, 13 May 2012 - 10:03 PM.

[Anarchy]

I had no problems for the 6 months it was floating around in the engine bay.

Must be a speedster thing. Mine came on within 30 min. Fixed by refitting it.


@Anarchy is that a 120 alternator i see?
edit; missed your other topic. You're looking for a 100 i see. Good luck with that.

Unfortunately I need an 100A alternator plus today I found out our Volvo needs a new alternator, so what should have been holiday money is going on car parts

[smiley]

Make sure to get a good used 100a. Ebay sells cheap "new" 100a ones, but they have the housing of the 120.

[Anarchy]

Update 5

It has been quite a while since any real progress but I am back on it now the days are longer. The one thing that was always bothering me was how hard the pulley would be to remove, I know people have struggled in the past without the correct gear and I thought my jig would have done the job. Well it didn’t so I beefed it up a bit basically doubled up the thickness of the plate but still the thing just started to bend. Next I tried it with a blow torch on it and the pulley puller, still stuck solid, so you know when you get to the point when one way or another this thing will not beat you that is where I was. Hammers, heat and hacksaws later the pulley was well and truly ruined but off, gone were my doubts about doing a stage 1 and go straight to stage 2, it was too late.


50 mins @ 250 deg C

And the new pulley went on easily.

With the pulley replaced this seemed like the physically difficult jobs were over, next I moved on to removing the ECU to get it off to Courtenays for the remap. I had read it needed drilling out and the day I tried to do it was just a pain in the arse, the drill battery was flat, the drills were blunt I could not find any of these star allen keys, should have been easy really but just goes to show without the tools a hard job and a wasted evening really.

Got back on to it at the weekend and just went for it and ripped everything out, ECU drilled out, injector rail, injectors (which were seriously tight and nervy with the O rings getting left behind in the bore), manifold off, basically everything is now off ready to extend any wires/pipes and start refitting the new parts. I needed to do this to understand what was required, there were a few outstanding things I did not have my head round, basic things really like relocating the sensors as mentioned above and what extra parts I needed to finish the job like hose connectors, nuts n bolts etc.



While access was good I took the opportunity to sort out the leaking oil filter housing, a few months ago I found one of the sandwich gaskets in the engine bay which explained the oil leak I was having. The thing was too tight to undo from above so with the manifold off I had someone apply pressure with the filter remover chain and then I whacked the notches with a pin punch at the same time and it came undone easily.




Turns out I need a new 100A alternator, it was quite difficult to know the difference between the various 100 and 120A models out there, Bosch, Hella, cheapo aftermarket jobbies I ended up with the best second hand one I could find, you can see the comparison below, the left one is the 100A



Not much in it but you can see the 100A is a touch shorter.

I think I pretty much have everything now so I know people like to see the collection of bits, this what I have bought. Just ordered a 32mm joiner for the S bend top hose.







Plus the supercharger itself but got no pic of that yet.

Edited by Anarchy, 19 May 2012 - 07:39 PM.

[smiley]

Looking good.
As for the touch shorter 100a: this is how close a 100a with a shortened bolt and removed plastic cap is to the SC manifold:

Edited by smiley, 19 May 2012 - 08:19 PM.

[pottsey]

good read mate ,i think you'll easily get 220 bhp .i got 213 on my vec and that was with an unhealthy engine

[Anarchy]

I have had a go at fitting the alternator and modded it a bit, I thought it might fit without totally butchering the outer cover but it still touched. So I will remove it and attatch the +wire direct to the alternator. On Sunday I will extend the injector wires, I am colour blind so wiring is not my strong point but from what I have read I just have to keep the wires in the same orientation as before. There is a + on the new injectors but I cannot see anything on the old ones.

[Exmantaa]

Detail of Smiley's modded 100A alternator, so the surpressor inside the cap is still functional:

[Anarchy]

Would something like a Pipercross Venom be OK for a stage 1 SC car? I was planning to just use the standard airbox but fitting it somewhere with access to the filter and having the ECU mounted on the backwall is proving difficult. I like the idea because I have no intercooling and the cold air feed of an enclosed inlet filter might make sense and the filter will stay cleaner, plus any open cone filters I have had on other cars just seem to make a load of noise and loose low down torque. I should only be aiming for 220 BHP max so any reasons not to use one?

Edited by Anarchy, 22 May 2012 - 07:08 PM.

[techieboy]

It'll be fine.

[14500rpm]

That is where I suspected it might go, ie make your own hole between filter and TB.

Yep, pull the sensor and the sealing ring out of the existing plastic inlet and drill yourself a suitable hole in the aluminium pipe (or whatever you're using) and refit. Due to our stupid ECU, it's the only temperature sensor we have on the inlet (or exhaust) side of the car and is part of the reason the SC's maps are a bit of a bodge and play safe, as there's no way of telling the ECU what's happening post charger.

Is it worthwhile relocating the sensor to the supercharger inlet manifold?

[techieboy]

Is it worthwhile relocating the sensor to the supercharger inlet manifold?

In an ideal world yes, I'm sure it would be. But, I don't think Courtenay can't map it properly (usual lack of access to enough of the ECU) if it's in there, otherwise I'm pretty sure they'd find a way to re-locate it in the manifold for safety, if nothing else. As it is, I think we rely on the knock sensor to tell the ECU enough is enough and it's time to back off a bit.

[smiley]

Doesn't the map sensor on the tubby edition have some extra temperature wires and sensor, that the NA doesn't? (ie also requiring the z20 ecu, like nick and joe have)

Edited by smiley, 23 May 2012 - 08:09 AM.

[techieboy]

Not sure whether the turbo runs a TMAP sensor but the LSJ runs one in the SC inlet manifold. Have a feeling the turbo ECU runs two IAT temp sensors and the MAF/AMM replaces the MAP sensor.

[Exmantaa]

Z20LET MAP sensor is the same Bosch TMAP sensor as used in the 2.0 LSJ SC engine/ecu... (LSJ has same build-up; a MAF sensor that detects incoming IAT1 and airmass plus a TMAP sensor in the manifold that detects MAP pressure and IAT2.)

[14500rpm]

Thats a shame, the z22se ECU seems to be a bit of a bastard.

[techieboy]

Z20LET MAP sensor is the same Bosch TMAP sensor as used in the 2.0 LSJ SC engine/ecu...

Thats a shame, the z22se ECU seems to be a bit of a bastard.

Indeed.

[smiley]

Maybe f the german tuner is succesfull at the stand alone ecu conversion, and it can do IAT2 it's the way forward, if lsj/hp tuners is not the cup of tea. Both not simple (read cheap) though.

[Anarchy]

When I pulled the old injectors out I did not pay much attention to how the clips worked. I cannot figure out how and what they are supposed to be doing, are they used on the new VXT injectors, wont the fuel rail hold the injectors in place anyway?