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Testing The Abs/speed Sensor?


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#21 siztenboots

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 10:13 AM

set to AC milliamps, and then spin the wheel you should get a pulsed signal

#22 hutchy

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 04:50 PM

Ok latest update, not good. Similar resistance across nsr hub to NSF about 1400 of what I presume are mOhms. Couldn't creates voltage by moving the break disk however I doubt I was even getting 10 rpm so that's probably why. Open circuit when testing fuse 22. Similar resistance when testing the loom for the nsr hub a foot from the sensor, where it enters the engine bay, thinking that hot was the most likely to have a fracture.... Where do I go from here? Fracture really could be anywhere Couldn't test the pins at the abs ecu Waveney aren't numbered and I couldn't work out which were which :(

#23 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 05:21 PM



It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue.


Part number please...

#24 hutchy

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 08:09 PM

Does anyone know how to identify which pins on the ecu are which? There didn't even appear to be 23 on my connector. Considering extending passenger side loom across to the drivers side to see if that solves the speedo light? Would also prove either way if its the sensor to blame, obviously the ABS light will still be on but the speedo would work>

#25 sford

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 09:16 PM




It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue.


Part number please...


No part number but this is the one.

http://www.ebay.co.u...f#ht_500wt_1180

Comes from America though. I'm sure I can have a look on the bit when it arrives. TBF I've probably paid more htan I should ordering it from there but it is the only one I can find at the mo that fits.

Hope that helps!

I will have a look at mine and take a photo tomorrow in the light and write the pin out on it. I can't take credit for the details in my post I'm afraid, got them from a question I asked not that long ago.

Edited by sford, 26 October 2011 - 09:18 PM.


#26 hutchy

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 10:59 PM





It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue.


Part number please...


No part number but this is the one.

http://www.ebay.co.u...f#ht_500wt_1180

Comes from America though. I'm sure I can have a look on the bit when it arrives. TBF I've probably paid more htan I should ordering it from there but it is the only one I can find at the mo that fits.

Hope that helps!

I will have a look at mine and take a photo tomorrow in the light and write the pin out on it. I can't take credit for the details in my post I'm afraid, got them from a question I asked not that long ago.

That would be great thanks a lot!

#27 hutchy

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 08:35 AM

Ps if anyone could work out the colour of wires entering the abs ecu from the nsr hub it would be great as it could prove I have a break between hub and ecu!

#28 sford

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 11:27 AM

I'll take the photo after work (about half 4/5) and stick them up.

#29 hutchy

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 12:00 PM

Thanks I'd really appreciate it!

#30 sford

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 08:06 PM

Posted Image

You can see PIN one and that runs along the top to pin 15, pin 16 is the bottom right and runs to the middle of the block. The central line is the continuation from 20+ then the bottom left are 27 to 31.

When unplugging this connector, there is a slide next to where the cables plug in that removes it from the abs ecu which the unlabeled arrow points to.

Hope that helps!

#31 hutchy

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 09:09 PM

Thanks a lot I really appreciate you taking the time to do that!really helped! Most of those 'pins' are empty in mine tho! I must test all four circuits and see if there any difference! So do all three rows run from right to left on that view of the plug?

#32 sford

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 10:02 PM

As you can see, they are in mine as well, if you test the ones I mention, you should be able to identify where the break is. Obviously have all your hubs connected up. My guessing is it'll have broken where the loom comes down to the plug on the hub, before it reaches the wires coming out of the hub.

#33 hutchy

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 10:06 PM

Here's hoping. I tested as far up that wire as I could thinking the same as you but it wasn't open at the level where the loom disappears into the engine bay!

#34 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 10:37 AM





It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue.


Part number please...


No part number but this is the one.

http://www.ebay.co.u...f#ht_500wt_1180

Comes from America though. I'm sure I can have a look on the bit when it arrives. TBF I've probably paid more htan I should ordering it from there but it is the only one I can find at the mo that fits.

Hope that helps!

I will have a look at mine and take a photo tomorrow in the light and write the pin out on it. I can't take credit for the details in my post I'm afraid, got them from a question I asked not that long ago.


That is just the pug and wires and not the sensor that goes into the hub therefore if a sensor has failed or the wires have broken into the hub, that won't work.

#35 sford

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 12:15 PM






It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue.


Part number please...


No part number but this is the one.

http://www.ebay.co.u...f#ht_500wt_1180

Comes from America though. I'm sure I can have a look on the bit when it arrives. TBF I've probably paid more htan I should ordering it from there but it is the only one I can find at the mo that fits.

Hope that helps!

I will have a look at mine and take a photo tomorrow in the light and write the pin out on it. I can't take credit for the details in my post I'm afraid, got them from a question I asked not that long ago.


That is just the pug and wires and not the sensor that goes into the hub therefore if a sensor has failed or the wires have broken into the hub, that won't work.


Apologies, I thought the OP had posted that he tested the wires going into the hub and they all showed the correct resistance, hence why I went on to mention the actual loom as opposed to the sensor itself.

I had found on mine that the wires coming out of the plug itself had gone brittle (presumably due to moisture and general crap) and, if in the instance of the issue I had, broken/failed just higher up from the hub where the wires go through the wheel arch.

Sorry for the confusion.

Edited by sford, 28 October 2011 - 12:15 PM.


#36 hutchy

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 12:32 PM

I tested the hub/sensor and plug level and then about a foot further up and both showed a similar level of resistance. Will be in a bit of a quandary if the resistance at the plug is similar. Would probably change hub sensor if that happened

#37 hutchy

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 10:34 AM

Well worst fears realised :( open circuit back pass side. Closed one foot proximal to the sensor so f... Knows it could be broken anywhere. Am I mental to consider just running a new twin length of wire from sensor to abs ecu? Or does it go through a processor etc en route? Edit: only up side was not buying and fitting a new sensor to find this, that would have been proper gutting Edit edit: big thanks to sford couldn't have worked out which sensor is which without you, owe you a pint big time

Edited by hutchy, 29 October 2011 - 10:37 AM.


#38 hutchy

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 01:40 PM

Well it's fixed!!!dodgy connector between loom and hub working 100% now after a but if persuasion. Couldn't have done it without you guys!

#39 NDT

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Posted 03 July 2012 - 09:58 PM

If you have a multi meter you can read the pons at the abs ecu end. Not sure off the top of my head but if the meter reads 0 (no resistance) then that is the faulty one. Think you should be reading 1.4 ohms??? Resistance ish on them. All you need to do is unplug the wiring loom from the ecu located at the front drivers side wheel. Simply open the front bonnet and it's the black box with Bosch on it. The plug is on the side of this box and has a slider that helps remove it. The pin out is below.


Rear right 9 + 10
Front right 12+ 13
Rear left 22 + 23
Front left 14 + 25

Obviously you know which one is faulty but just be doubley sure that it is a new hub that you need. My abs light is on as the wires coming to the sensor have broken, though they are just old and corroded, making the wires brittle and because of this they have snapped. You can just trim off the section that is brittle and replace it with a new/used gm abs connector pigtail with the correct clip on the end.

It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue. Where are you located. If not too far happy to meet you around the midlands/bham area to have a quick look!

Tom


Thanks - this was really helpful when I needed to get the VX thru its MOT!

#40 siztenboots

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 07:49 AM

if the abs ring is damaged, then measuring milliamps on the pins on the hub , whilst turning the hub normally gives you a pulse of current. anything else must be a wiring fault / corrosion in the plug




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