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Courtenay "billet Steel 5,6 Kg Flywheel"


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#41 Ricky2772

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Posted 23 July 2004 - 09:14 AM

OK! Anyone know which torque shall be used for flywheel and pressure plate bolts? And other ones as well?

you can get the torque printout from the opel dealer, with all the correct numbers...
my tuner should have it, but I won't have time till next week...

#42 ChrisR

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Posted 23 July 2004 - 03:46 PM

Flywheel to crankshaft 65nm +30 degrees + 15 degrees do in stages symmetrically. Pressure plate to flywheel 15nm You must use new bolts when fitting :) Chris

#43 clipping_point

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Posted 23 July 2004 - 08:41 PM

OK! A guide for my own flywheel replacement, with the help of "dude´s" expertise. I will soon test it in practice. Please correct me if I´m wrong somewhere. The oil? This is a 3-4 hr job if the rear clam and undertrays are removed. Disassembly 1. Drain the gear box oil. 2. Remove the upright+the left drive shaft 3. Unscrew el. wiring, water hoses, clutch hydraulics as well as the gear shift cables. 4. Remove all bolts except the 2 uppermost at the gear box flange to the engine. 5. Remove engine supports rear, front and left. (Fixate the engine with a engine hoist before the cushions are removed). 6. Pry loose the right hand drive shaft from the gear box and then remove the last 2 screws holding the gear box to the engine. 7. Pull away the gear box towards the left to disengage from the engine, while the right hand drive shaft slides out from the gear box. 8. Loosen all screws to pressure plate in a cross-wise manner and finally remove the bolts holding the flywheel. Refitting Generally the assembly is in the reverse order 1. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 65nm +30 degrees + 15 degrees. Do in stages symmetrically. 2. Fit the clutch friction plate, and the pressure plate. Tighten the bolts cross-wise. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 15 Nm 3. Slide the gear box onto the left side of the engine. Take care that right the drive shaft enters the gear box. 4. Refit all engine supports and lower the engine. 5. Re-fit the gear shift cables, clutch hydraulics el. Wiring and any water hoses. 6. Refit the left side drive shaft and the upright. 7. Refill the gear box with oil.

#44 clipping_point

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Posted 05 August 2004 - 04:59 PM

Flywheel in place, gearbox fastened to engine, engine in its supports! The rest follows tomorrow! But how much gear box oil? Which typ? How do I check the level? Drain plug?? Or just a specific volume?

#45 clipping_point

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Posted 05 August 2004 - 08:02 PM

It is a 10-12 hr job that sometimes require two persons to be present Disassembly 1. Drain the gear box oil. 2. Remove the left brake caliper 3. Remove the two allen bolts at the upper wishbone, remove all shims 4. Remove the lower LR wishbone at the chassis 5. Remove the complete upright together with the left drive shaft 6. Unscrew el. wiring, water hoses, clutch hydraulics as well as the gear shift cables. 7. Remove all bolts except the 2 uppermost at the gear box flange to the engine. 8. Remove engine supports rear, front and left. (Fixate the engine with a engine hoist before the cushions are removed). 9. Pry loose the right hand drive shaft from the gear box and then remove the last 2 screws holding the gear box to the engine. 10. Lower the left side of the engine. 11. Remove all M12 bolts connecting the gearbox to the engine. There is one hard to reach at the back of the engine. Note that the bolts are different lengths. 12. Pull away the gear box towards the left to disengage from the engine, while the right hand drive shaft slides out from the gear box. 13. Loosen all screws to pressure plate in a cross-wise manner and finally remove the bolts holding the flywheel. An alternative is to remove the right drive shaft as well, which I did Refitting Generally the assembly is in the reverse order 1. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 65nm +30 degrees + 15 degrees. Do in stages symmetrically. 2. Fit the clutch friction plate, and the pressure plate, properly centered. Tighten the bolts cross-wise. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 15 Nm 3. Slide the gear box onto the left side of the engine. Take care that right the drive shaft enters the gear box. 4. Refit all engine supports and lower the engine. 5. Re-fit the gear shift cables, clutch hydraulics el. Wiring and any water hoses. 6. Refit the left side drive shaft and the upright. 7. Refill the gear box with oil. 8. Bleed the clutch hydraulics

#46 Thorney

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Posted 05 August 2004 - 08:10 PM

Hmmm. :blink: Personally I would go for: 1. Drive to garage 2. Come back two days later. 3. Give garage large sum of cash. 4. Drive away. :D I have nothing but admiration for people prepared/skilled enough to do this - well done thumbsup

#47 clipping_point

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 08:44 AM

It is a 10-15 hr job that sometimes require two persons to be present. Preferably done with the car lifted high, but can be done on floor level, which I did. Disassembly 1. Drain the gear box oil. 2. Remove the left brake caliper 3. Remove the two allen bolts at the upper wishbone, remove all shims 4. Remove the lower LR wishbone at the chassis 5. Remove the complete upright together with the left drive shaft 6. Unscrew el. wiring, water hoses, clutch hydraulics. Pry loose the gear shift cables and release the spring holding it. 7. Remove all bolts except the 2 uppermost at the gear box flange to the engine. 8. Remove engine supports rear, front and left. (Fixate the engine with a engine hoist before the cushions are removed). 9. Pry loose the right hand drive shaft from the gear box and then remove the last 2 screws holding the gear box to the engine. 10. Lower the left side of the engine. 11. Remove all M12 bolts connecting the gearbox to the engine. There is one hard to reach at the back of the engine. Note that the bolts are different lengths. 12. Pull away the gear box towards the left to disengage from the engine, while the right hand drive shaft slides out from the gear box. 13. Loosen all screws to pressure plate in a cross-wise manner and finally remove the bolts holding the flywheel. An alternative is to remove the right drive shaft as well, which I did. Refitting Generally the assembly is in the reverse order 1. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 65nm +30 degrees + 15 degrees. Do in stages symmetrically. 2. Fit the clutch friction plate, and the pressure plate, properly centered. Tighten the bolts cross-wise. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 15 Nm 3. Slide the gear box onto the left side of the engine. Take care that right the drive shaft enters the gear box. 4. Refit all engine supports and lower the engine. 5. Re-fit the gear shift cables, clutch hydraulics el. Wiring and any water hoses. 6. Refit the left side drive shaft and the upright. 7. Refill the gear box with oil, 2 l. 8. Bleed the clutch hydraulics

#48 clipping_point

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 08:46 AM

Started the engine without any probs. Next week I will have the car back from the body shop! :groupjump:

#49 BradW

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 10:58 AM

Congrats Imnotworthy

#50 Big_Si

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 12:17 PM

Personally I would go for:

1. Drive to garage
2. Come back two days later.
3. Give garage large sum of cash.
4. Drive away.


Me to, though step 3 always makes me :blink:

#51 clipping_point

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 12:47 PM

Thanx guys! And OOOH that motorcycle-like roar without the silencer on was surely inspiring!!! Maybe some less silencing would be nice.................

#52 clipping_point

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Posted 08 September 2004 - 04:28 PM

Have tested the car now for 2 days. The acceleration at low gears is improved significantly. Tickover is steady, and it revs more freely. Maybe you´re one of the near 200 downloaders?? ;) Anyway, tested the acceleration with my GTech Pro thingy: Standard VX 0-60 in 6,93 s With Milltek+AmD remap 0-60 in 6,75 s With Milltek+AmD+ Court. Flywheeel 0-60 in 6,49 s ...and don´t believe the factory figures 0-60 in 5,9 s

Edited by clipping_point, 08 September 2004 - 04:31 PM.


#53 Ducati996Senna

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Posted 08 September 2004 - 07:24 PM

Clipping point, how difficult was it to remove the flywheel bolts. Did you have to lock the flywheel? Did you use an air gun or normal rachet socket set? Paul

#54 Sicey

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Posted 09 September 2004 - 04:35 AM

Standard VX 0-60 in 6,93 s
With Milltek+AmD remap 0-60 in 6,75 s
With Milltek+AmD+ Court. Flywheeel 0-60 in 6,49 s

...and don´t believe the factory figures 0-60 in 5,9 s

You need to loose some weight mate :lol:

#55 clipping_point

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Posted 09 September 2004 - 06:24 AM

Clipping point,

how difficult was it to remove the flywheel bolts. Did you have to lock the flywheel? Did you use an air gun or normal rachet socket set?


Paul

Not very difficult. Actually we resorted to use a air gun, but at refitting we locked the flywheel at the toothed rim.

Edited by clipping_point, 09 September 2004 - 06:25 AM.


#56 Ducati996Senna

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Posted 09 September 2004 - 06:52 AM

Did you use a special tool to lock the flywheel or what did you use? Paul

#57 clipping_point

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Posted 09 September 2004 - 08:03 AM

No, just a screwdriver or a wedge, supported at the housing. Might be a better way, but its a classic ;)

#58 The Knobs

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Posted 09 September 2004 - 08:09 PM

Hmmm. :blink:

Personally I would go for:

1. Drive to garage
2. Come back two days later.
3. Give garage large sum of cash.
4. Drive away.
:D

I have nothing but admiration for people prepared/skilled enough to do this - well done thumbsup

10 years ago i would have struggled for the weekend to do the job myself.

Now would take this option without a doubt thumbsup

#59 clipping_point

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Posted 09 September 2004 - 08:14 PM

If it is my hobby I personally want to manage all operations myself. Plus I don´t have the money to spend. ...Plus IF I have the money I can get a flywheel+2 sports cams for the same price others pay for the flywheel+installation!! :groupjump:

#60 da_murphster

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Posted 11 September 2004 - 02:57 PM

Hmmmmm......I would really like a new flywheel but can't justify the 400 odd quid to get it fitted and although pretty practical I'm no mechanic but keen to learn. Is this job a definate no no for beginners?? Just a thought but being a military type I have access to pretty decent workshops, lots of cheap accomodation (Officers Mess, complete with good food and cheap beer) Would anyone be like to get together and make a weekend of this? I havnt thought this through at all but we'd need some one to help us (ie talk us through it), any specialist tools etc. I'd be willing to contribute to paying some mechanical type to help us for the weekend. Bearing in mind that I possibly wont be back in the UK til Jan (although I might be back end of Oct), location would probably be Reading. Whatta people think?




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