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Fitting A Supercharger Phenolic Spacer

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#1 Rally

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:07 PM

I've just finished my SC install incorporating a phenolic spacer and was wondering if my experience would be useful at all to anyone else thinking of doing the same. So at the risk of being grossly impertinent, here goes:

First of all, what is it? It is a piece of phenolic resin plastic in the shape of an inlet manifold gasket that sits between the cylinder head and the inlet manifold. The aim is to reduce heat soak from the head into the inlet manifold by insulating it. Anything you can do to reduce the charge temperature is a good thing in terms of reducing detonation and increasing power. In all, the spacer, along with two gaskets, comes to about 10mm thick which introduces some problems...


1) The lower manifold support bracket.

The threaded hole at the bottom of the inlet manifold where the support bracket attaches is 10mm further away from the block. In my case, I could get the proper GM bracket from neither Courtenay's or anywhere in the USA. (Personally, I suspect the supply has dried up entirely). I was really not at all happy about the idea of running it without so I made one.

Posted Image

Actually, I think not being able to get a GM one did me a favour as it forced me to make one that matched the spaced out position of the inlet manifold where as a stock bracket would have to be spaced out. I was very careful to make sure it fitted perfectly by dry assembling everything but did take the precaution of slotting out the manifold mounting bolt hole slightly fore-aft to allow for the extra thickness of the pair of gaskets. If you get it wrong up-down then it will force open a gap between the manifold to head. When doing the final assembly, the bolt going into the manifold side was put in after the head bolts, before the weight of the supercharger was added and did not force the manifold in any direction. When the bolt is tightened, it braces the whole thing.


2) Alternator spacers

With a ‘normal’ install, the 100A alternator with the plastic cut out already barely fits. Once the manifold is spaced out, the positive terminal well and truly fouls the manifold so the only option is to space out the alternator by the same 10mm. I machined up 4 spacers to sit between the alternator and the block. It also requires longer bolts!

Posted Image

3) Spacer and gasket alignment

The Z22SE fitted to the VX uses 6mm bolts and studs to hold the manifold on. I can only assume that the American Cobalts and Saturns use 8mm bolts as the Supercharger inlet manifold has 8mm holes! Without some intervention, it would mean that the spacer and gaskets would be free to float about all over the place whilst you try and bolt up the manifold and prove impossible to align them to the ports. Courtenay’s do sell a very expensive “Inlet Manifold Alignment Bung” but that wouldn’t necessarily work with the spacer.

I got hold of some 8mm OD/6mm ID alluminium tube and made up alignment tubes. The trick here is to get the length just right - too short and it would allow one of the gaskets to escape alignment - too long and the bolts will bottom out on the tube and not secure the manifold. I dare say that you could get away with fitting a couple and it would do the job but I ended up making them for all 7 bolts/studs. Make sure you apply copperslip to the bolt shafts to prevent the tubes binding over time.


4) Belt

The final ‘gotchya’ is that the belt you buy from Courtney’s will now be too short so be prepared! I found that a 1288 belt was perfect for mine but am running a slightly smaller than standard pulley.

I hope that was of some use!

#2 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:18 PM

Have you got a photo of the phenolic spacer?

#3 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:26 PM

10mm? Thats quite thick. By coincidence we've been fitting a new design inlet manifold on the Elise tonight (K20 SC) and the one on there is 5mm with the gaskets. Did you make the spacer yourself?

#4 Rally

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:29 PM

It's from ZZP in the States and looks like this:

Posted Image

It's a shade under 10mm with the two gaskets. Whether it needs to be so thick is another thing entirely...

#5 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:32 PM

Is it quite rigid or floppy poof

#6 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:33 PM

The thicker the better I suppose, 1 deg c = 1 bhp and all that

#7 hutchy

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:36 PM

A lot of hassle to deal with a problem that people have no real evidence exists? I would have thought conduction from the head and supercharger paled in comparison to the hot air going through it?

Edited by hutchy, 24 January 2012 - 11:38 PM.


#8 Rally

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:38 PM

Is it quite rigid or floppy poof


It is extremely stiff :o

An early use of phenolic resin is Bakelite (thanks Wikipedia) and it is very hard indeed. I think it consists of a resin and paper laminate.

#9 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:38 PM

A lot of hassle to deal with a problem that people have no real evidence exists? I would have thought conduction from the head and spacer paled in comparison to the hot air going through it?


Must say I've not heard of it on a vx before however all the Elise/Exige sc Honda conversions have it

#10 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:39 PM


Is it quite rigid or floppy poof


It is extremely stiff :o

An early use of phenolic resin is Bakelite (thanks Wikipedia) and it is very hard indeed. I think it consists of a resin and paper laminate.


The one on the elise is rubbery, almost like silicone

#11 Rally

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:40 PM

A lot of hassle to deal with a problem that people have no real evidence exists? I would have thought conduction from the head and spacer paled in comparison to the hot air going through it?


That's the point - to not have hot air going through it. Aluminium makes for a pretty good heat sink.

#12 The Batman

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:42 PM

Being one of the few that can measure proper intake temps, I have one of these fitted and I think I will have problems with intake temps... I like the fact that you spaced the alternator out though! Nice mod that.

#13 The Batman

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:43 PM

On the plus though I'm going to drop a intake mani off to pro alloy on Friday thumbsup

#14 fiveoclock

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:43 PM

Does it not make the TB hard up against the firewall?

#15 hutchy

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:44 PM

But how will a spacer between inlet and head achieve a reduction in the air going from sc to inlet?

#16 techieboy

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:46 PM

It doesn't really. It just insulates the inlet manifold from heat conducted straight from the engine block itself. Obviously, that might help drop intakes a little but I'm not sure thats a massive issue, the bigger problem is running the charger out of it's efficiency zone in the first place.

Edited by techieboy, 24 January 2012 - 11:47 PM.


#17 The Batman

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:46 PM

It doesn't reduce air it reduces eat transfer from the head to the manifold A negative point is it spacers the charger 9/10mm towards the bulkhead and with the silly harrop it makes it a right pig to fit!

#18 Rally

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:47 PM

But how will a spacer between inlet and head achieve a reduction in the air going from sc to inlet?


By not allowing the inlet manifold to heat up by conduction from the cylinder head. It's not the spacing that's important, just the insulation. Sorry, I didn't think I had to explain it.

#19 hutchy

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:48 PM

It doesn't really. It just insulates the inlet manifold from heat conducted straight from the engine block itself.

That's what I meant in my first post, I would have thought the heat transfer from supercharged air going through the inlet would be much more of an issue than a fairly small contact area of conduction?

#20 techieboy

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:49 PM

I expanded on that original post with a very fcuked up edit. :rolleyes: :lol:





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