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Water Injection Options

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#41 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 10:55 PM

and on opposite side

 

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Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 09 November 2015 - 10:55 PM.


#42 The Batman

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 12:23 AM

Will be very tight getting one on the alternator side

#43 Crabash

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 04:47 AM

Needs to be lower to miss the alternator. Very tight on that side. Don't waste your time doing it on the cheap (boost control), control via fuel inj signal, kits cost more but better than a kit at half the price that is a dead weight.

I,ve not seen one that works better than Acidpopstars and I put it down to position of nozzles and the way it's controlled. I have tested an extra jet before the SC, there was no diff to min temps, there may be some improvement to the max temps after prolonged running, I installed jet to give us the option.



#44 FLD

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 08:59 AM

From what I've seen water injection should be after the cooling element (wether that be intercooler, cc or whatever) to avoid condensing the water on the element which results in pooling in the manifold (bad); but it should be as far from the valve as possible to allow maximum time for heat to transfer from the air to the water.  There is a cooling effect from the atomisation as well as the absorbtion.  It shouldn't be evaporating though, that would be bad for charge density.  Evaporation should happen in the cylinder. 

 

I still think there's gains to be had by moving the injector position.  It will need thought to prevent drop out but it has potential.



#45 cookster501

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 10:04 AM

I'm going to be using 30% methanol in my setup gives better cooling over just water and boosts the octane leave of your fuel

#46 FLD

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 10:14 AM

Have you swapped your seals to suit?



#47 cookster501

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 10:28 AM

Supertech valves double valve springs titanium caps retainers and supertech valve seals Aquamist hfs3😊

#48 FLD

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:18 AM

You need to be creful of all your engine seals if youintend to use much methanol.  It tends to find its way around your engine and it has a nasty effect on all the seals so best to check crank seals, valve seals, o-rings etc are up to use with methanol.



#49 ultimate

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:25 AM

I am using 50/50 water/ethanol. Snowperformance told me that there is nearly no difference in using methanol or ethanol. But ethanol is not so dangerous for human health and for the engine seals. Methanol is hard to get and very expensive here in Germany. Ethanol can be bought everywhere to around 3-4 euro/ litre

#50 techieboy

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:25 AM

Blue screenwash FTW. :D

#51 Rosssco

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:47 AM

The good thing about using water only, is that it comes out of most taps...:D



#52 techieboy

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:55 AM

Exactly. If you're tuned to rely on WMI, you're fairly well fcuked if you run out of methanol (or ethanol) and water. At least with water only, you can refill anywhere even if it's nasty tap water. Better to not tune for max power based on WMI and just use it for it's cooling and let the ECU breathe a sigh of relief. Especially if you're SC'd and relying on MAP to run it (near constantly). Unless of course winning the pub pissing contest is your aim or Santa Plod is your game. :lol:

#53 The Batman

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:58 AM

Unless of course winning the pub pissing contest is your aim or Santa Plod is your game. :lol:

I just lie :lol:

#54 cookster501

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 12:46 PM

A car that's tuned for maxpower with wm runs dual maps so it doesn't matter if you run out I'd rather flick a switch than put tape water in my car

#55 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 12:52 PM

Until there is some evidence of the engines being able to take over 400 hp I won't be using it to add power Just cooling for me with water

#56 Crabash

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 03:12 PM

If you use meth or whatever else on a boost based control you will find it almost impossible to keep the engine in tune. Especially on PD SC.

#57 ultimate

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 05:04 PM

I've got an airflow meter installed. This 0-5V signal is the input for the WI-Controller. Than tuned the fuel table with WI activated -> no problems. But will switch to "pro" as soon as it is available

#58 techieboy

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 05:26 PM

I've got an airflow meter installed.

Definitely a better way to do it than using MAP. thumbsup

#59 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 07:36 PM

Hi Chris, I have attached a list with the new working features for ObdTunerPro. Regarding the water/alcohol injection; I am currently testing this on my own car, for now only tested with water but hopefully this weekend I can test with an alcohol mix. I am using the Aquamist HFS3-pwm system: http://www.aquamist-...-progressive-sy stem-utilising-pwm-valve/  This system can be controlled by a PWM signal just like a car injector and can be directly connected to the EGR output. Only extra hardware needed is a small 330 ohm risistor. I will add a section in the manual on how to connect this system to the car. This system also has a very good fail/safe mechanism which in my opinion is very important if you want to build a safe setup. You can probably also use another brand of WI, some systems only have a 0-5V input for controlling the amount of water/alcohol, this can also be connected to the EGR output but requires some extra hardware to convert from a PWM signal to a 0-5V signal. I am planning on making list and circuit of parts needed for this. Or maybe make something ready to use so people can order it complete from me. With the WI system connected to the EGR output, you can select the EGR port to be used for water injection control in the software. This will give an extra tab where you can fill in the percentage of water/alcohol you want to inject, see attached screenshot.  With this active fill up the water tank and do a fuel learning. If you have alcohol added the normal fuel table will be leaned out and the fuelling will be corrected for the extra burned alcohol. The wideband control will compensate should there be less alcohol in a next filling etc. I would advice to have a safe calibration for normal fuel without water injection and one with water/alcohol injection active. When this system is active you can lean out the normal fuelling so maximum power is reached and also can give more ignition advance which also will increase power. A good water injection system has a fail/safe output which will be set when the system is working OK. If you connect this to the calibration selection input, the system will automatically switch to the safe calibration should you run out of water. Kind regards, Peter



#60 cookster501

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 09:03 PM

Good choice Peter the HFS3 with all it's features looks to be one of the best kits out there👍





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