Goofballs: You mean that the bump stop is on the damper itself, like a rubber cushion? OK, thought it was somewhere in the suspension. Then I see how it could be a potential problem. However I use it on my 2.2 N/A and think it works OK. How much travel do you expect before the shock sits on the bump stop? 10-20-30 mm? And then there is the leverage in the suspenison allowing the actual wheel moving 30-60-90 mm something.. sorry still waiting for my car so I cannot make any inspections of my own.
/tobbe
It is actually very difficult to judge how much travel is actually left, unless you make very accurate measurements using an angled mirror and a light, while the car is on the floor. However, I would suspect it has very little travel...making a rough guess, maybe it has 10-20mm of travel left, after the springs were fitted.
I can sense that on a smooth surface it is not sitting on the bumpstop, because the car rides smoothly, and is not hopping/oscillating (look at the back end of a Max Power car, and you will see this). It would therefore, be very good on a track day and smooth European roads. The progressive nature of the spring has been calculated to allow it to work in unison with the existing bumpstop.
However, when I travel over a bumpy road, where there are very sharp dips and bumps. Such as in Wales or the Yorkshire Dales, the car is going to hit the bumpstop very often...subconsciously I will slow down to a speed where the car does not bottom out. This is crucially why the driver does not notice that the suspension is slowing him down on bumpy stretches (he self-adjusts). For example, give a driver an understeering car and he will adjust accordingly and will work around it.
Personally, I wouldn't worry at all if you do not travel on this type of surface. There are significant other benefits to lowering the car, such as the automatic increase in negative on both front and rear wheels (this in itelf will allow the car to corner a lot harder on smoother surfaces).
I have spoken with my specialist, and he has recommended that he makes me a custom made anti-roll bar. There are anti-roll bars on the eliseparts website for £199. These will stiffen up the suspension when it corners, but it will allow the same ride quality on the straight, however these may not be suitable to the heavier VX....maybe, aftermarket anti-roll bars for the 111R will be suitable, because it weighs very similar to the VX and is likely to have similar spring rates.
Other than that, there are no other cheap ways of modifying the suspension to allow better performance.
If I was willing to pay more I would buy the Nitron or Ohlins setup, however, at the moment my budget is a little thin.
cheers
Bye!
How does it feel over big bumps? Does it hit the stops?
