
Can You Test An Actuator?
#1
Posted 18 June 2014 - 08:19 PM
#2
Posted 18 June 2014 - 08:28 PM
#3
Posted 18 June 2014 - 09:13 PM
Mine was a bit like this. I upgraded to the forge recirc valve but that didn't do anything so I bought a new actuator from Courtenays in the end. It certainly made it a bit better but I still find it a bit of a pain on a balance throttle.
#4
Posted 18 June 2014 - 09:53 PM


#5
Posted 18 June 2014 - 10:21 PM
#6
Posted 18 June 2014 - 10:34 PM
Good call, I've got one somewhere too but not sure how much of a vacuum it'll make. I'll give it a go but if it isn't up to it I'll give you a shout cheers. Ideally I'd like something that'll measure how much vac is needed to operate the actuatorI have a large syringe you could use to pull a vacuum if you want to try that.

#7
Posted 19 June 2014 - 12:31 AM
#8
Posted 19 June 2014 - 04:56 AM
Oem management loves stage 4 power part throttle.........not lol. The more boost ran the more it shows itself on oem / vxr turbo etc One of the main reasons I bothered developing the standalone conversion DGMine was a bit like this. I upgraded to the forge recirc valve but that didn't do anything so I bought a new actuator from Courtenays in the end. It certainly made it a bit better but I still find it a bit of a pain on a balance throttle.
#9
Posted 19 June 2014 - 05:41 AM
#10
Posted 19 June 2014 - 06:14 AM
Edited by Nev, 19 June 2014 - 06:14 AM.
#11
Posted 19 June 2014 - 06:39 AM


#12
Posted 19 June 2014 - 07:20 AM
Just bought one of these, http://www.amazon.co...tl&tag=tea01-21 looks like it should do the job
Liam at MMG has something like that so I hope it will
#13
Posted 19 June 2014 - 07:42 AM
the wastegate actuator is boost pressure , not vacuum , but those kits are good really pleased with mine.
boost pressure is taken after the comp wheel , and feeds the solenoid. This is switched to failsafe actuator , or the ECU controls wastegate duty to pulse switch it back to the turbo intake.
The threaded rod moves downward , and pushes the lever which opens the wastegate. Check the nuts are both tight , as any play won't help matters.
I don't know the supplier or donor vehicle for the CS uprated actuator , but from replacing 2/3 of mine they seem fragile. On the look out for something better made a DIY serviceable and spring rates.
one option
#14
Posted 19 June 2014 - 08:23 AM
#15
Posted 19 June 2014 - 10:40 AM
Edited by Nev, 19 June 2014 - 10:41 AM.
#16
Posted 19 June 2014 - 10:51 AM
Not quite as I understand it , the spring holds the w/g shut and the boost has to overcome the spring to open the w/g
So using the same example , spring 12psi , we adjust the preload on the shaft to 12psi , until the solenoid give us more than 12psi the shaft does not move, w/g stays shut. ( back pressure will also try to push past the w/g )
http://www.turbosmar...-wastegate-faq/
#17
Posted 19 June 2014 - 03:24 PM
Most of what you are saying is going over my head so can you guys elborate on the symptoms you are trying to correct.
My turbo seems to be either one or off, with really strong boost and then nearly nothing when the throttle is relaxed which feels like the brakes have been pressed. Is this what you are describing Dave?
#18
Posted 19 June 2014 - 03:40 PM
#19
Posted 19 June 2014 - 06:42 PM
Dave, I wonder if on some cars the plane that the wastegate rod pushes on is not in line with the hinged operation of the wastegate itself. If this happens, I think the wastegate would sort of lurch open/shut in "chunks" (rather than progressively) due to friction. The only way to realy test this is to take the turbo off the car and observe the angles and operation. Also, the wastegate can be known to stick wide open on the side of the turbine housing.
I thought that you'd sold your turbo'd car ?
This does seem to make sense. My old actuator always looked like the threaded bar looked bent. It had a bit of tubular shaped metal part way down the rod which I discovered later was linking 2 threaded rods. At Dijon last August at the end of the suddenly lost boost completely and it looked like the rod had snapped. Turned out the join in the middle had come unscrewed. It was easily put back together but I decided it looked a little worse for wear generally so got a new CS one.
I get the feeling the new one is starting to look a bit bent.
Also the penny valve on the wastegate does stick on mine if it is allowed to go to far back (when the actuator is disconnected) so it could be that the valve is sticky generally which would make it hard work for the actuator to open/shut smoothly. If this is the case the only cure would be removing the turbo.
Edited by P11 COV, 19 June 2014 - 06:43 PM.
#20
Posted 19 June 2014 - 06:48 PM
BTW...I just used a foot pump to test if the actuator was working or not.
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