71 replies to this topic

[SteveA]

You can test them without buying a new one, it's quite easy once you have removed them from the car.

 

http://www.vx220.org...ntrol-solenoid/

 

Be sure to check both BCS and VCS (they are the same model but in different locations). Mine had the same issue as yours and the VCS was the culprit.

 

Be sure to run some power to it too and make sure the valve is operational and that airflow is diverted and doesn't leak out of the original exit once activated.

Edited by SteveA, 29 April 2015 - 12:03 PM.

[ghand]

Just need a can of injector cleaner throwing in, be fine in 30/40 miles, well that's all my stuttering under heavy load was but it's the superior model to yours

[redvts]

Did you find the post i was telling you about packs?

Edited by redvts, 29 April 2015 - 06:58 PM.

[p4cks]

UPDATE:

It's a faulty AMM. I changed the other boost solenoid, took it out and it was identical. Came home with a box of matches and a jerry can full of petrol ready to torch the cunt until I thought 'oh I'll disconnect the new (fitted July'14) AMM and see if that does anything'.

 

And you'll never guess what... It ran like a dream.

 

So I need to email Lotus Newcastle who fitted it (having checked it isn't a Bosch one!) to see what sort of guarantee it came with and talk about getting a replacement. Because it was relatively recently replaced I didn't think to check it. FFS.

[SteveA]

It might not be the amm Pack. Mine was a short in the loom that supplies the power to the amm.

[p4cks]

Ahhhhh noooooo man don't be pissing on me parade ha!

 

how will i be able to diagnose?

[SteveA]

It's easy enough to diagnose if you have a multimeter. Fixing it however can be a real PITA because of it's location. The plug you have disconnected is part of a loom extension which feeds between the fire matting and bulkhead and comes out near the intercooler. It then joins to the main loom some where near the cam cover by another four pin plug (X36) which is quite often tie wrapped to the IC to TB hose. Disconnect this and do some continuity (resistance) testing between it and the plug that was plugged in to the MAF. Hopefully your issue is here because the next part is harder to do. You should be expecting very little resistance (circa 0.01 Ohm), anything high or fluctuating a lot  is a problem. You might have to move the wiring around a bit to see issues (simulating the engine moving while driving)

 

If those test come up fine you then need to test the loom between the other part of the plug you disconnected and the ECU. Disconnect the X32 connector (one of the big badass ones that plug into the ECU, the one closest to the engine bay) and continuity test between the following X32 pins; 6, 7, 35, 38. The corresponding pins on the X36 are; 5, 4, 2, 3 respectively.

 

The wiring diagram shows the wire colours and pins and the MAF is item B46.

 

http://www.speedster... Z20LET - 1.pdf

Edited by SteveA, 01 May 2015 - 08:40 AM.

[siztenboots]

I moved my earths from the intake manifold to the engine block

[p4cks]

New AMM fitted and it's fixed!

 

I'll add it to my annual service consumable list

[redvts]

Lol i think that was my first txt to about this i asked you what size maf you had and you said it was new Oh well at least its sorted

[turboluca]

You must have a list of spare parts now . Glad you sorted it an can enjoy the summer now.

[siztenboots]

Lol i think that was my first txt to about this i asked you what size maf you had and you said it was new Oh well at least its sorted

well the amm is new , but the plug pins and loom are 10+ years old