137 replies to this topic

[Goldfinger]

Hi Many thanks, I think I have an understanding

 

These are the OpCom ref values for Idle and Open Throttle?

 

 

[mark_vx]

Hope you got this sorted in the end?

[Goldfinger]

Not there yet as i have not been able to do anything for the last couple of weeks. I have some auto wiring arriving in the next couple of days i will update then thanks for the post

[Goldfinger]

My Mystery deepens slightly. I was making sure that the MAP Sensor and the Throttle body was fastened correctly and checking the connectors. I must have brushed the cables leading to the ECU connector and when I then re-started the car it jumped straight to 2000 rpm and after about 30 seconds the revs flickered from 1000-2000rpm and then settled down and ran incredibly rough at about 1500rpm.

 

I turned off the ignition and then restarted the car and exactly the same thing scratching my head at this point I took out the head unit for the cd and radio as I had put this back in and to my suprise the car started and idled perfectly, I put the head unit back in again and there was no change to the revs or the when I re-started so I ruled that out as a coincidence.

 

I then started the car and moved the wires connected to the ECU connector and the throttle butterfly opened slightly and the car started to cut out, I moved the wires back and the car then went back to its steady RPM at 1250 ish. I moved the wires again and this time the car stalled, I restarted and again playing with the wires. These are the throttle pedal side that I am intending to replace so I think I am getting on to something

 

My theory is then that the wires from the APP sensor are in trouble, however I dont think that these are an isolated problem I think that the ECU connector is also duff. I would like to therefore replace the cabling and also the connectors. What does anyone think is the best bet, can I get the ECU connectors from any source at all or can I get them from a scrapped Astra or Vectra. Or is there other interesting ways of dealing with this problem

 

 

 

 

[TheHood]

I think you'd be better off getting hold of a second hand engine loom and re-instating the missing X2 / X3 connectors.

 

ElizP987 (crafty-plates on eBay) breaks cars and has this sort of thing some times.

 

I'm afraid my loom is not for sale in case I ever need it again

[Goldfinger]

Thanks for the advice I think that you are right, 

 

[jonathansouth]

This really is a saga you've been involved in. Really hope you get it sorted.

[Goldfinger]

Me too !!!

 

One thing though is that I now know far more about the car than I did when I bought it, maybe should have done much more research before buying, but that is the way it goes. 

 

I have managed to do the headlights and the seats which owners seem to have difficulty with. The seats are going off to the trimmers next week so they should come back mint. Hopefully by the time the seats come back I will have an operational throttle pedal, fingers crossed. 

 

 

[Goldfinger]

So

 

I have now been able to get a replacement engine loom, has anyone fitted one of these and can give me a few pointers

 

Many thanks

[smiley]

5 looms will not fit

[Goldfinger]

Yes sorry about that, just the one loom and now cant remove the posts

[G-Bob]

Has anyone suggested having a look at the EGR yet?

When my EGR valve started to go I would get periods where the engine was running but the throttle pedal would not work.  

 

Worthwhile taking it off and giving it a quick clean (if it's still attached)

[FLD]

So

 

I have now been able to get a replacement engine loom, has anyone fitted one of these and can give me a few pointers

 

Many thanks

 

Swapping an engine loom is fairly straightforward.  I'd suggest laying out the new loom in the right orientation before you swap it in.  This will allow you to get it in the right shape and familiarise yourself with all the plugs.  After that I'd just dive in.  Good luck with it, you've certainly had a saga!

[Goldfinger]

Hi Thanks both. 

 

I will layout as you suggested I am just curious of there are any hard to get connectors or something that is going to trip me up. I think most things are straightforward and I have identified all of the main connectors but there are a couple of small ones which I think are for the crank sensor and I think something that goes towards the starter motor.

 

Interesting Post on the EGR valve yes it is still on but not attached a blanking plate has been fitted allowing the EGR valve to  be strapped to the washer bottle bracket. I have no idea what this has achieved as it does not have the work around pcb in the connectort that I have seen advertised. I have cleaned it, but maybe just maybe it might be a failure. However I thought that this would affect idle and not throttle response. 

 

Worth a gamble I can probably pick one up via the internet

 

 

[FLD]

If there's no cheater the egr should remain connected.  This way the valve still operates and the ecu registers this but its not actually recirculating exhaust gas.

 

 

[Goldfinger]

Managed to change the loom this weekend. I worked back from the ECU and kept the old loom on until I got to the blue and black connectors, pretty straightforward really until I got to the connector that sits behind the fuel pump. It has a green and white wire and a brown and white wire. I have fairly small hands but I could not get to the clip so I took a leap of faith and reconnected higher up the wiring. 

 

Many thanks to The Hood (Scott) as he gave me all of the colouring and positions of the wires from the blue and black connectors bearing in mind that they had all ready been removed by a previous owner, so I went through the connectors wire by wire and re-connected. I was concerned that I would not get this right, but in the end I was able to follow the wiring from the ECU connector to the blue and black connectors and it made sense. 

 

Took the OP Com readings and cleared the faults and hey presto, I now have an accelerator peddle again.... It did throw up a p1336 crank position sensor error, but the car has started and this seems to have cleared, be interesting to see if anyone else has had this fault and can tell me where the crank position sensor is located, if it is the connector at the base of the fuel pump, I am guessing that the only way to get access to this is from the bottom of the car.

 

In terms of the issue and the fix, I think that the loom was that tired and had over the years been repaired and bodged so many times that the connectors on all of the major components were that worn that this was causing the fault. In my opinion the main cause of the issue was the ECU connectors, at the end of the day I have fitted a reconditioned ECU and have had to replace the engine wiring loom, One by product of the experience is that I now know a great deal more about the car than when I started. So fingers crossed I can get cracking on some driving, as soon as I have had the seats re-bolstered. 

 

By the way, replacing the accelerator peddle was a headache, I cannot believe in the manufacturing process that you would have bolts and not studs on the pedal box, really easy to push the bolts out and never see one of them again !!!

 

Thanks for all  the helpful tips and advice and spare parts that I have been lent.

[speedster]

[4cTech]

Good start to the new year