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Volvo T5 Engine Transplant


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#21 vxt5

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 11:35 PM

I did check the weight of both engines a while back. Cant remember off the top of my head but I think theyre pretty similar in weight. Ive also got both sets of driveshafts so were gna cut n shut them and then get some made up when its up and running.

#22 Rosssco

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 11:44 PM

Presume that's a 6-speed box too? If it's works out, you should sell copies of the mounts.. ;)

#23 vxt5

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 12:08 AM

Ye ur right its a six speed.

#24 AMOSS

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 06:02 AM

Good stuff. I've always liked the idea of taking on something like this.

#25 Duncan VXR

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 06:21 AM

Great to see another engine option in the vx ;) The vag 5 pot tfsi uses a shorter box in tt and rs3 to compensate for extra width of block On the tfsi conversion in the elise I am well informed cooling was an issue beyond 320. There is a video clip of psr one showing what they used. Cc option def the best proven route although not cheapest When I did the vag conversation I kept both ecu's to retain control of everything and makes a lot of sense with the oem vag ecu and direct fuel injection of tfsi Sure I can offer some pointers if you need but great work so far DG

#26 Ormes

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 06:51 AM

Good to see another big project underway :) thumbsup

#27 Arno

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 08:42 AM

To get it running ive got the standard st ecu and clocks etc atm.

 

Depending on now much the Volvo ECU has been hacked to run standalone that may be quite a painful process. Modern Volvo's since about 2004 tend to be CAN'ed and LIN'ed up to the gills and the standard ECU tends to become quite unhappy if it can't talk to all it's zillions of buddies in the car ;)

 

You may be better off ditching the Volvo ECU and going for a modern mappable ECU from the start like a Syvecs and others that can handle the VVT and turbo control.

 

May be a bigger initial outlay, but in the end it may well turn out to be a cheaper solution..

 

Bye, Arno.



#28 siztenboots

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 10:09 AM

well done , huge respect for getting stuck in with this

#29 slindborg

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 10:13 AM

 

To get it running ive got the standard st ecu and clocks etc atm.

 

Depending on now much the Volvo ECU has been hacked to run standalone that may be quite a painful process. Modern Volvo's since about 2004 tend to be CAN'ed and LIN'ed up to the gills and the standard ECU tends to become quite unhappy if it can't talk to all it's zillions of buddies in the car ;)

 

You may be better off ditching the Volvo ECU and going for a modern mappable ECU from the start like a Syvecs and others that can handle the VVT and turbo control.

 

May be a bigger initial outlay, but in the end it may well turn out to be a cheaper solution..

 

Bye, Arno.

 

 

they do love a bit of central car config and getting the same status info from about a dozen different units :(

Also the immobiliser tends to be a massive pain in the ass, but there might be easy ways round this now.



#30 simonlpearce

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 11:59 AM

Aha, was wandering when this thread would appear! This used to be my motor, and i'm glad to see it is being put to good use.

 

The engine should be up for grabs and was a good engine, except for a coolant leak which i presumed to either be pump seals or thermostat seals.

 

Either way i am subscribed and look forward to more updates. I may even have to take a run down to wales in its replacement (bmw z4 m coupe) once its complete to be nosey and have a gander  B) .



#31 vxt5

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 02:24 PM

More than welcome simon. Be a while off yet mind lol.... I think getting it running with the standard ecu is going to be the headache but well see... if it becomes too problematic I may well go for a different standalone ecu but well cross that bridge when it comes along. Hopefully well be able to hack some of you more confident members brains for the info we need lol

#32 vxt5

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 11:16 PM

Posted Image small update. Give the rear hubs a clean and a lick of paint with new bearings. Going to do the same with the arms and replace all joints and bushings.

#33 vxt5

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 11:17 PM

Posted Image

#34 Ormes

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 07:20 AM

Nice :) thumbsup

#35 Mangham54

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 07:42 AM

Thank god you didn't go for a lairy colour as to me it just makes the car look like it is owned by a Halfords staff member. That green-gold looks like it has just rolled off the production line

#36 Nev

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 08:18 AM

VXT5, looking at the pics above, are you sure your 2 hub carrier bolts are penetrating deep enough into the threads?? Looks to me like you can't even see the ends of them in the pics...

 

Theses are a known weak point of the car, so might be worth finding slightly longer bolts to ensure more contact with the threads in the hub carriers.



#37 simonlpearce

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 10:51 AM

Standard of work looks absolutely top there!



#38 slindborg

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 11:08 AM

aside from the threaded holes and tapers being full of paint? Not being an arse, but you want those to be clean/clear to get the best mating joints possible and rpefent premature failures :)



#39 vxt5

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 04:19 PM

Il put a tap back through them threads and clear the tapers prior to reassemble and thanks for the heads up on the hcb. Il replace them with a new set as soon as I get chance to order some should I replace the shims at the same time?

#40 slindborg

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 04:26 PM

depends... if the gemoetry is going to be right with that number of shims then get new (HARD) ones, but for the initial build I wouldnt bother with new ones or new HCb's and simply get it built then sort the geometry out and replace the HCB's (definately and replace shims as needed.






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