314 replies to this topic

[speedster]

answering my own question - an na

[vxt5]

answering my own question - an na

Sorry mate missed ur question

[speedster]

answering my own question - an na

Sorry mate missed ur question

No worries keep building

[simonlpearce]

 

Will keep popping back to see progress!

[Arno]

Some pics of the lower mounts...



 

 

You might want to consider using a significantly bigger diameter (solid) rubber mount for these on the chassis and subframe end. (there's lots of space to go at least as big as the OEM one..)

 

That would allow you to run a slightly softer rubber compound (but still solid) and keep some compliance mainly to dampen out annoying 'buzzy' vibrations at idle and some spots in the rpm range. As long as it's a solid rubber one it should keep larger engine movements in check.

 

The current small diameter ones will probably need to be quite hard (or even PU bushes) to survive the forces put onto them and it can result in a quite an annoyingly rattly/buzzy car.

 

The gearbox one can probably also do with another brace bar welded onto it from the subframe bush to the rearmost point on the gearbox attachment to create a tension/compression element to stop the current bar breaking at the welds or bending as the engine wants to rotate.

 

Some extra gussets and cross-braces on the main engine mounts may be good too.

 

Bye, Arno.

[vxt5]

Some pics of the lower mounts...



 

 
You might want to consider using a significantly bigger diameter (solid) rubber mount for these on the chassis and subframe end. (there's lots of space to go at least as big as the OEM one..)
 
That would allow you to run a slightly softer rubber compound (but still solid) and keep some compliance mainly to dampen out annoying 'buzzy' vibrations at idle and some spots in the rpm range. As long as it's a solid rubber one it should keep larger engine movements in check.
 
The current small diameter ones will probably need to be quite hard (or even PU bushes) to survive the forces put onto them and it can result in a quite an annoyingly rattly/buzzy car.
 
The gearbox one can probably also do with another brace bar welded onto it from the subframe bush to the rearmost point on the gearbox attachment to create a tension/compression element to stop the current bar breaking at the welds or bending as the engine wants to rotate.
 
Some extra gussets and cross-braces on the main engine mounts may be good too.
 
Bye, Arno.

Thanks for the advice Arno weve taken it on board. Were going to add some more bracing and gussets on the mounts but for the moment stay with the pu bushings and maybe look at them at a later date if we find the vibration is too much.... on the lower mounts did you mean add another brace so theyre triangulated rather than being single straight joints?

Edited by vxt5, 04 December 2014 - 07:57 PM.

[Nev]

This is impressive stuff VXT5

 

Where abouts in South Wales are you? I drive over from Bristol to the Black Mountains quite a bit on good weekends, I'd love to pop over and take a butchers at your work and have a chinwag if you fancy it.

 

What's your day job, are you some sort of fabricator/mechanic, as you seem to know exactly what your doing.

Edited by Nev, 05 December 2014 - 08:57 AM.

[siztenboots]

thats a nice picture of the inside of the subframe leg , its a lot weaker than it looks.

[Rosssco]

thats a nice picture of the inside of the subframe leg , its a lot weaker than it looks.

Yep, experienced this first hand recently.. :-/

[Arno]

on the lower mounts did you mean add another brace so theyre triangulated rather than being single straight joints?

 

 

Indeed.. To make sure the rotation movement of the engine when it's putting down power does not start to bend the tube (or break the welds) between the subframe end and the first connection to the gearbox.

 

The front one should be less of an issue as far as bending goes as it only has 1 attachment point on the engine and chassis.

 

It may want to rotate though and perhaps loosen the bolt that attaches it to the engine. If that's an issue then perhaps use the second bolt hole you see on the photo to link onto and provide an anti-rotation 'anchor' like you already have on the rear/gearbox mount as well.

 

It then may also need some triangulation or postitive interlock so you don't have to rely only on the weld(s) to keep it attached.

 

BTW.. May want to consider doing these lower mounts cut from steel plate with only the bush attachment welded on like a tube.

 

Something like this (just as an example):

 

 

The single-piece steel plate will be very strong in the direction the forces work on it and there's not much that can break off or bend.

 

Just need to find someone with a laser/water/plasma cutter and a CNC control

 

Anyway.. Perhaps that's for 'phase 2'. The ones you have should work too, just keep an eye on them for possible breakage/bending and re-design when needed... That's part of the development process!

 

 

Bye, Arno.

[vxt5]

on the lower mounts did you mean add another brace so theyre triangulated rather than being single straight joints?
 

 
Indeed.. To make sure the rotation movement of the engine when it's putting down power does not start to bend the tube (or break the welds) between the subframe end and the first connection to the gearbox.
 
The front one should be less of an issue as far as bending goes as it only has 1 attachment point on the engine and chassis.
 
It may want to rotate though and perhaps loosen the bolt that attaches it to the engine. If that's an issue then perhaps use the second bolt hole you see on the photo to link onto and provide an anti-rotation 'anchor' like you already have on the rear/gearbox mount as well.
 
It then may also need some triangulation or postitive interlock so you don't have to rely only on the weld(s) to keep it attached.
 
BTW.. May want to consider doing these lower mounts cut from steel plate with only the bush attachment welded on like a tube.
 
Something like this (just as an example):
 

 
The single-piece steel plate will be very strong in the direction the forces work on it and there's not much that can break off or bend.
 
Just need to find someone with a laser/water/plasma cutter and a CNC control
 
Anyway.. Perhaps that's for 'phase 2'. The ones you have should work too, just keep an eye on them for possible breakage/bending and re-design when needed... That's part of the development process!
 
 
Bye, Arno.

Understood arno thanks for the help

[vxt5]

Cheers Nev i live near caerphilly but the cars based in barry at a mates garage.I have to travel about an hour each time I want to work on it thus being why progress is slow not to mention work commitments. Ur welcome to come and chat anytime ur close by if u want, just gimme a heads up on here and il let you know if im ther... I cant take the credit for all the work so far on this project my mate whos very involved is doing a lot for me including the welding. Niether of us are in this type of work and just enjoy tinkering with motors weve been planning to do a project for a long time and now were doing the vx its just finding the time to play.

[vxt5]

 

on the lower mounts did you mean add another brace so theyre triangulated rather than being single straight joints?
 

 
Indeed.. To make sure the rotation movement of the engine when it's putting down power does not start to bend the tube (or break the welds) between the subframe end and the first connection to the gearbox.
 
The front one should be less of an issue as far as bending goes as it only has 1 attachment point on the engine and chassis.
 
It may want to rotate though and perhaps loosen the bolt that attaches it to the engine. If that's an issue then perhaps use the second bolt hole you see on the photo to link onto and provide an anti-rotation 'anchor' like you already have on the rear/gearbox mount as well.
 
It then may also need some triangulation or postitive interlock so you don't have to rely only on the weld(s) to keep it attached.
 
BTW.. May want to consider doing these lower mounts cut from steel plate with only the bush attachment welded on like a tube.
 
Something like this (just as an example):
 

 
The single-piece steel plate will be very strong in the direction the forces work on it and there's not much that can break off or bend.
 
Just need to find someone with a laser/water/plasma cutter and a CNC control
 
Anyway.. Perhaps that's for 'phase 2'. The ones you have should work too, just keep an eye on them for possible breakage/bending and re-design when needed... That's part of the development process!
 
 
Bye, Arno.

 

Understood arno thanks for the help will add more pics once weve hopefully finished the mounts

[vxt5]

Stripped engine of all ancillaries ready to clean up and give a light dusting of paint just to freshen it up not sure whether to go different colour on the gearbox???

[Mangham54]

Why paint it? You will have issues with paint matching when something needs to be replaced. Genuine question, not trying to be an ass.

[Arno]

Nice to see how incredibly compact/short  the Volvo 6-speed gearbox is..

 

BTW.. This would be the perfect time to replace the clutch so you're sure to start out with an 'as new' setup   

 

Bye, Arno.

[Captain Vimes]

small update. Give the rear hubs a clean and a lick of paint with new bearings. Going to do the same with the arms and replace all joints and bushings.

I'm about to do something similar with my hubs. What paint did you use as that looks perfect.
Also, did you sandblast before hand?

[vxt5]

Why paint it? You will have issues with paint matching when something needs to be replaced. Genuine question, not trying to be an ass.

Not painting it as such. just giving it a light dusting to clean it up a bit. Ive taken pretty much everything external off the engine so that I dont have to worry about getting overspray on them and they will all be remaining the standard colour

[vxt5]

Nice to see how incredibly compact/short  the Volvo 6-speed gearbox is..   BTW.. This would be the perfect time to replace the clutch so you're sure to start out with an 'as new' setup    This is on my "to do" list before the engine goes back In arno.. im going to use the standard clutch from the focus RS as the clutch in this engine is a known problem when adding up the horses...   Bye, Arno.

[vxt5]

small update. Give the rear hubs a clean and a lick of paint with new bearings. Going to do the same with the arms and replace all joints and bushings.

I'm about to do something similar with my hubs. What paint did you use as that looks perfect.
Also, did you sandblast before hand?

I tried everything when cleaning up my hubs. Used abrasive wheels...wire brushes and a diy sandblaster.... it takes more elbow grease than anything else and for paint I just used gold hammerite...