101 replies to this topic

[DaveyC]

The relay works when applied with 12v from a different source but the socket is only supplying around 6v.

[vocky]

you should try and figure out why there is not enough voltage to power the relays 

 

brown relay gets it's power from fuse under front windscreen, next to wiper motor

[DaveyC]

I've checked that fuse, it seems fine. I was wondering if the wiring for the chargecooler pump could be upsetting things.

[vocky]

what power is at that fuse ?

 

could it be a poor connection at the battery terminal or a corroded pin at the fuse ?

 

6v is just not enough voltage to power the relays 

Edited by vocky, 06 February 2015 - 10:06 AM.

[DaveyC]

I'll take a look over the weekend.

 

Cheers for the pointers.

[DaveyC]

Right. Some updates.

 

The low voltage reading was down to a flat battery from all the time the car has been on tow with the wipers going over the past few weeks.

 

Once fully charged the problem still persisted until one day just going away.

 

As with all intermittent faults, it came back shortly and the same problem persists.

 

Out came the multimeter again.

 

When the ignition is off, I'm getting 12V at the brown relay (K18) pin 85 (as I'd expect) and no continuity between the control out pin 86 and earth. When the ignition is on I'me getting about 60 ohms between pin 86 and earth. This prevents the relay from switching.

 

When it is working, there is something like 15 ohms between pin 86 and earth and the relay switches on.

 

I'm assuming this means there is an earth issue somewhere. As the car was supercharged by a previous owner, I don't know what has been moved or replaced with the electrics. One thing I spotted is that I don't have a braided earth strap between the cylinder head and the cam cover. Also, I've read references to an "ECU earth wire" possibly shown here: http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 2.pdf as "1P" can anyone tell me where on the ECU and engine this is actually attached as it doesn't seem to be part of the two main connectors and I have no other wires connected to the ECU?

 

I checked the resistance between various earth points, the engine, the chassis and the ECU case and the max is 0.4 ohms. Unfortunately it seems to be working at the moment, so I can't find the fault. I'll probably have to wait for it to stop working again so I can trace it - which means going for a drive, breaking down and being towed back again.

[vocky]

run a new earth between the ecu and engine cylinder head, also add the missing cam cover earth trap 

[DaveyC]

I have created makeshift solutions for the two until some bits arrive tomorrow.

 

Is it necessary that the cable between the ECU and the cylinder head have no other connections on it?

 

As of about an hour ago I'm using it to earth the chargecooler pump relay too.

[vocky]

as long as the cable is a decent size, 2.5mm or more 

[DaveyC]

Right, the car is currently "working".

 

I've installed a new earth strap and a wire between the ECU and engine.

 

I'm now on a Dutch ECU too.

 

Is there anyone on here who professionally tunes the Dutch ECU? I would normally go to the place that did my last car, but since the software is confined to the VX220 community I thought it would be worth trying to find someone with some experience using it.

[NickB787]

just follow the pdf manual it is pretty much straight forward

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I've helped plenty Davey but don't charge so can't call my self a professional Always will to help and guide at same time

[DaveyC]

I'm looking for a proper rolling road tume with ignition timing too. Rather than just the fuel learning. I've done a fair bit of the fuel learning and it still drives poorly at very small throttle openings even in the areas that enough data was gathered.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

The biggest mistakes people are making with the software is that there not adding to the permanent memory of the ecu after carrying out changes, which resets the ecu when the ignition is switched off Not saying this is what your doing but would suggest getting the car 95. % on the road before taking to RR Personally not seen any evidence of achieving anything on a RR which can't be done on the road

[DaveyC]

I did make that mistake the first time! I quickly realised and started again. With the rolling road it is just the convenience really. A few hours in the hands of someone who does it day in and day out compared to driving around, finding a place to pull over, synching data, finding a flat and quiet place to do the power measurement runs and so on. I would still do a lot more of the auto learning stuff before getting it on the rolles to finesse things and sort the WOT sections. Where are you based? (Apologies if it's in your sig. I'm on my phone).

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Cheshire

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Will travel to help if you pay my expenses Or better still do a fuel learn on the way to cheshire Then fine tuning can be done In sunny Cheshire

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 25 February 2015 - 08:16 PM.

[DaveyC]

Thanks for the offer.

 

I may well take you up on that.

 

At the moment I'm having some throttle-related problems that I thought were down to the missing earths but something is still wrong.

 

The throttle body functions fine normally unless I 'blip' the throttle from idle - doing this causes the engine to stumble and often cut-out.

 

I also get a lot of hesitation when driving and applying gentle throttle between 1500rpm and 3000rpm. During the fuel learn these sections of the map indicated they had enough samples as the EML was off. Applying a little more pedal breaks through the hesitation and the car shoots forward. It makes driving slowly really rather hard.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Are you @ stage 2 setup No cams etc

[DaveyC]

I had the same issue at stage 2 on the CS ecu. I now have: comp cams blower cams Wiseco 8.9:1 pistons Eagle rods Siemens 630 injectors Still on the stage 2 pulley for the moment I'll email over the calibration file when I'm home.