101 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

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[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Are you still using stage 2 ignition setting Or did you get a new calibration from peter

[DaveyC]

The Dutch ecu went on after the other mods so all the calibration is for the new setup.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

How long ago did you get base calibration ?

[NickB787]

I have a spare lsj if you wish to try.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Did you do conversion your self If so where did you get TB wiring diagram from as there is a mistake in the guide on here

[DaveyC]

Litterally drove it for the first time yesterday. Did a quick learning session, concentrating on the low rpm stuff where I knew there was an issue. Someone else did the stage 2 conversion. I've done the stage 3 stuff. My next step was going to be to check the tb wiring to make sure it is all hooked up correctly. If this doesn't work then a quick try with a spare lsj tb would be good to rule that out.

[DaveyC]

I'm now on a PC so a little more background:

 

I bought the car August/September last year as a Stage 2 with CS map on it. It has always had an odd hesitation around 2000rpm with very light throttle. I put this down to the limitations of the CS mapping.

 

The engine went bang on a track day last year, this was put down to over-revving causing thermal shock cycling by some engine experts.

 

I bought a new bottom end and refurbed the cylinder head with:

wiseco 8.9:1 pistons

eagle rods

balance delete

supertech valves

comp cams blower cams

 

I also modified the manifold end-plate to run dual-pass.

 

I ran the engine in with the old VXT injectors and CS map.

 

After about 30 miles I did an oil and filter change to get rid of any nasties.

 

That's when the dodgy wiring (possibly) was causing relay K18 not to switch on.

 

The relay started working again of its own accord (?)

 

I did about 20 miles on day.

 

Tried to drive it to work the next day and...

 

The car stopped working again (dodgy wiring)

 

The car started working again (?)

 

The Dutch ECU, a TMAP sensor and the new injectors got installed (all accounted for when Peter compiled the calibration file).

 

The car started first try with the new ECU but cut out every time the throttle was sharply 'blipped'.

 

I spoke with Peter about this and sent him a log file. He noticed that the second O2 sensor was 'clipping' i.e. recording the maximum possible voltage all the time.

 

I then installed an earth wire from the ECU to the cam end plate and an earth strap from the cylinder head (where the condenser is mounted) to the cam cover earth.

 

Peter suggested I unplug the second O2 sensor and run a fuel learning session without it since it is only used for checking the catalyst.

 

I took the car out last night to do a fuel learning session and try to iron out the issues with the part-throttle hesitation. OBD tuner was reporting it has enough data to calibrate that part of the map so I processed the measurements and made them permanent in the ECU. The hesitation is still present and possibly worse than on the old ECU. I also decided to try 'blipping' the throttle when I was back home after the calibration and the engine immediately cut out.

 

Next step is to check the TB wiring was done correctly when it was initially installed. I'm going off the ECU wiring diagram and the diagram here: https://z22se.co.uk/...8d3be_thumb.jpg since some of the wires are the same colour as each other I plan to check resistance between the throttle end of the wire and the ECU end to make sure I'm looking at the right ones!

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Give the battery terminals a check They can be a pain to get the lugs to crimp on to the terminals

[Exmantaa]

Did you do a log file with the blipping? Would be of interest to see the trottle pedal imput in relation to the reported TB feedback...

TB wiring sequence is good, or wrong and then it will not start. How is the TB working with ignition on? (remove intake pipe and observe TB opening)  

 

And somebody should lend you a spare 68mm TB to try out..

[DaveyC]

I did, yes.

 

I'll do another log next week and try to capture it cutting out a few times in a row for comparison.

 

With the engine off and ignition on the TB seemed to work fine. At rest and when unplugged it is open slightly, which I assume it is supposed to be for idle air.

[Exmantaa]

Yes, that little open is the fail save limp home setting...

[DaveyC]

Update:

 

Nick has lent me a spare TB to try but unfortunately I'm now back to the original problem of the fuel pump not priming when the ignition is on. So I can't test to see if the cutting out symptom is fixed with the new TB.

 

Error codes indicate injector circuits open and throttle body malfunction - which I think could all be just because relay K18 isn't switched.

 

The relay socket is getting 12V and there is 3 ohms between the socket and engine earth when the ignition is on.

 

I tested the relay with a pair of fly leads on the battery and it switches fine.

 

I tried a random relay from the front of the car on fly leads in the K18 socket and it doesn't switch.

 

I tried taking the 12V from the K18 socket to the K18 relay and then earthing the other pin directly to the engine and it doesn't switch.

 

How can a relay not switch when given 12V and an earth????

 

When fiddling with the loom down by the back of the gearbox I occasionally hear a relay in the boot click - but it isn't consistent enough for me to even narrow down which section of the loom, let alone which wire.

[vocky]

K18 is powered by the green/pink wire (negative) and brown (positive), the small brown wire is linked to the larger brown wire which feeds the outputs of the relay (injectors, coilpack, etc). This brown wire comes from the fuse under the windscreen next to the wiper motor.

 

As the green/pink wire goes through the 'loom of doom' plugs (behind the coolant tank) it might be worth checking them.

 

http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

[NickB787]

I also have a spare loom you could try, I stripped it back to recover but never got round to doing it, fitted with ev1 injector plugs

[DaveyC]

The brown wire is getting 12V fine at the moment.

 

I'll give the connectors another check tonight.

[DaveyC]

Re-checked the coolant tank connectors and they seemed fine. Gave them another spray with wd40 for luck. Cleaned the earth point on the rear of the body. Got the wife to hold the k18 relay in her hand whilst I jangled various parts of the loom around. The harness that supplies power to the rear from the battery seems to have an issue. When I moved it around the relay could be felt clicking on and off rapidly. This harness has two thick Brown wires (one hooked up to k18, the other to the start inhibit relay) one thick Brown/red wire (hooked up to the start inhibit relay) and one thin Brown/yellow wire (not sure where this goes). Tomorrow I'll have a closer look at what might be wrong. It could possibly be the feed for the chargecooler pump as that is tapped into one of the thick Brown wires. My guess is it has damaged the cable and is causing the fault.

[DaveyC]

Right! I found what was wrong with the harness. When a previous owner tapped into the harness to get a feed for the charge cooler pump they broke the fir tree clip, leaving the harness to rest on the oil cooler. The plastic insulator inside the connector had melted and was causing a poor contact. I've cleaned this up and it has since been working. I'm still getting poor running between 1.5-2.5k rpm on light throttle with a lot of misfires that make pulling out of junctions very hard. I've done a fuel learning session focusing on these areas but no improvement has been made. The car has done something similar since I've owned it through two engines, two ECUs, two throttle bodies and three sets of plugs. Wondering if the first O2 sensor might be reading wrong. No error codes recorded for it and readings seem normal in the logs.

[oakmere]

I would highly recommend a new O2 sensor anyway when running the obd tunner. I replaced mine which had no fault codes and the car felt better and the fuel trims were lower after a fuel learn session. Cost about £70

[NickB787]

great news you found part of the trouble