97 replies to this topic

[FLD]

At least its the cold end thats closest to the CV boot.  Great work BTW

[TFD]

Ok, some coolant questions:

 

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]Here's the schedule from MarkV on the VX coolant flow:[/color]

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);] [/color]

 

I'm going to get the coolant feed from the waterpump (from drain bolt).

 

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]A) If I am correct, the z20net has a return in the "main outlet"? Correct?[/color]
[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);] The US Cobalt guys say to put the return into the "secondary outlet", straight back to the reservoir. I think this would not be such a great idea since you are warming up the cold water that is suppose to cool the engine (warm out and warm in....). Correct?[/color]
[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]C) Tapping into the thermostat means you recirculate the hot water into a cold circuit and putting hot water into the engine. Not that good. Correct?[/color]

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]I would go with option A. Any comments on this one? Thanx![/color]

 

 

 

 

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]For about the close turbo/driveshaft issue: The DBilas kit is even closer (with the hotside of the turbo in the driveshaftboot direction!) and holds up so far. Except for some melted gearcables here and there ....[/color]

[TFD]

Ok, so bought this :

 

 

Put my waterreturn into the "main outlet". 

 

Modified the OEM heatshield and looks and fits fine so far:

 

Drilled my banjo bolt to 1.5mm as a oilrestrictor for the non ballbearing turbo:

 

Got myself a 2.5" Imhof backbox so now I can sort out the rest of the exhaust.

[TFD]

No fancy expensive intake adapters.... Exhaustflange and 2" bend seems to work better:

 

Intake testfit. Maybe some heatfoil needed due tranny

 

Upgrade the OEM turbo u-bend to a 2,5" u-bend

 

Make space for the Saab intake

 

Shiny stuff

 

Get some more exhaust parts and of we go for some welding.

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

looking intersting

[TFD]

Got a saab intake today from Exmantaa.... thanx mate 

TB-hole is 60mm

TB and ECU fit perfect 1-on-1

Manifold shuts the OEM pcv hole (from cilinderhead 2 -3) perfect shut.

Shut the manifold pcv to prevent unmetered air coming in in vacuum situation

Perfect fit with 120A alternator

 

[FLD]

I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing this one running.

[TFD]

We've been busy lately...

VXR injectors and connectors came in: 

Now need some help on colors and wiring. 

 

Searching the forum I find this:

 

z22se (LSJ) A = positive

z22se engine loom

A = common - Red/Black

B = 1 - Brown/red, 2 - Brown/Blue, 3 - Brown/Green, 4 - Brown/Yellow 

 

The OEM injector says 0A and is connected to the Red/Black wire (pink in my case...). The others have the 4 different colors as written. 

Question: Which of the A or B wire has to be connected to the + side of the VXR injector?

 

Replaced one nipple for a larger one for the brake-booster

 

Next one is used for the EVAP line with an one-way valve in between

 

Tomorrow we go on...

[Nev]

How much boost will you use ?

[TFD]

Max. 0.8 bar / 12 psi.

[FLD]

I'm really hoping this works well ::

[FLD]

Just a thought after looking back through your pics.....

You may want to slot the exhaust flange in between the cylinders or elongate the holes for the exhaust studs.  Stainless expands quite a lot and log manifolds like this can end up snapping studs off if they don't have a bit of wiggle room.

[TFD]

Yes I know, thank you. Most of them are m10 size with a M8 stud but a few were very tight so I opened them later on to M10 size hole. Should be sufficient I guess?

[FLD]

Should be fine.

Can't wait for the result

[TFD]

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', Arial, sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]Short updat so far:[/color]

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', Arial, sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]TMAP 2.5 bar placed. Used the OEM MAP hole but the gap is alrger then the rubbe r0-ring. So a little ghetto helper to keep the sensor down.[/color]
[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', Arial, sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);] [/color]

[color=rgb(20,20,20);font-family:'PT Sans', Arial, sans-serif;background-color:rgb(252,252,255);]Blocked the crackhole to prevent dirty oil vapors getting into the manifold.[/color]

 

Working in the intercooler

 

... and the exhaust. Need some small stuff for it so will be done next week. A wideband and OBD-tuner and I think we're ready to roll.

[speedster]

[hairy]

looking good!

[FLD]

For the map sensor I think you can take the rubber bung off, wrap some tale round the peg and then put the rubber bung back on.  Still ghetto but looks OEM

[TFD]

Little update.

 

Got myself OBD-tuner.

Put poly inserts in while we're there..

 

Weak moment of thinking I guess. Dipstick behind the IC piping. Still works but no perfect access...

 

Did some weight meassuring: Minus 7,5 kg from oem exhaust (manifold till endtip) and that is inc. 5 kg heavy turbo! Pleased.

 

Have to finish exhaust and wideband and hope to start her up in two weeks.

[Nev]

Nice progress on an interesting project