223 replies to this topic

[TFD]

It's the Map Delta that differs between the m62 and DaveyC/Techie/Smiley/TFD.

I'm gonna use the M62 values now and see what happens,

[DaveyC]

Can you post your current transient settings and comment on performance?

[smiley]

TFD has a custom turbo (on Z22SE) system, not an SC.

 

Edited by smiley, 08 February 2016 - 10:39 PM.

[TFD]

Peter gave me an tune from another turbo setup. With this tune I have some issues when cold.

Start up the engine

Rev it (and let go)

Stalls (sometimes)

 

When warm, all is well.

 

Now I've looke dinto the transient maps and together with Smiley we figgered out I have a simular transient table as you Harrop guys have:

 

 

I only did some short trips to checks things out, but haven't logged misfires like you have.

Gonna put the M62 transient values into my map this week and see how it goes.

 

You guys could do the same as i think as, it looks to me, a lowrisk change.

 

Will post results.

[TFD]

Turbo or SC doesn't really matter. It's an engine with forced induction we're talking about.

Fuel and air going in, exhaust gasses and power going out. Timing, AFR etc. works all the same.

[TFD]

Where did you guys get your transient table #'s from btw? 

Tuned in yourself or did they "come with the tune/basemap?"

[smiley]

Comes with the basemap.

afaik, only Chill has tinkered with his.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

thought i would share my transient settings 

ive used various setting supplied by peter and tried some of my own, but found these the best settings

 

 

 

Dont forget im on the LS4 TB

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 09 February 2016 - 09:50 PM.

[DaveyC]

Mine came from Peter. I will have a look through the old base maps as he has sent me many to try and iron out various issues. I know I initially had a lot of trouble with what felt like a very laggy throttle response on the early maps i.e. from idle the engine would be reluctant to rev with a blip of the throttle. That has been fixed with whatever Peter has done. I'll take some screenshots of the transient tabs when I get home.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Got it sorted ?

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 26 July 2016 - 06:35 PM.

[DaveyC]

Not completely because I haven't had the car since March. Just collected it yesterday and I've got a few ideas for stuff to look into. I've got a chap with an oscilloscope coming over to see if anything electronic is misbehaving. After taking a break from driving the car for a while it's apparent that the various tweaks have made it a lot better than when I got it on the original ECU.

[Rosssco]

I had previous misfire issues similar to your's, so I ended up replacing the following:

 

Injectors (used new 470cc VXR)

Crank sensor

MAP Sensor

Switched cam cover back to standard alloy (wasn't sure if the plastic Z22YH was perhaps providing a poor earth - unlikely)

Removed CS intake spacer - when removed I found the paper gasket had severely degraded and shifted to the extent it might have been a possible leak path.

 

Engine now runs great with no intermittent misfires and still on Peter provided basemap.

[DaveyC]

I've tried points 1-3 & 4 by virtue of having an alloy one already.

 

An intake leak does seem like the most likely cause given the symptoms i.e. only on vacuum.

 

What is the CS intake spacer? Is that one of the plastic insulator spacers between head and manifold or something else?

 

What size are the bolts securing your manifold to the head? Mine are M6 with the exception of the massive bolt underneath. I think I read somewhere about people increasing to M8 somewhere?

[Rosssco]

The intake spacer is made from phenolic material which is a poor thermal conductor, the aim being to isolate the intake manifold from heat transfer from the cylinder head.   The ZZP one I had before didn't have the paper gaskets, which I think were the issue with the CS effort as they disintegrated like wet cardboard as I removed it, probably because my car lives outside and the gasket material is clearly not water resistant.   I use a Saab head, so I think I use M8 bolts rather than the standard M6 on Z22SE.. Shouldn't make a difference overall as long as the correct spacer collet things are used to align the manifold, and its installed correctly - easier than you think to get an air leak between the head and manifold, hence why I think the intake spacer may have been part of the issue (the misfire went away under greater / full engine load).

 

Might be worth (if you haven't already) removing the SC unit, removing the lower horizontal bolt, and ensuring the manifold is fully sealed against the cylinder head (and that's properly flat), tightening up the manifold - head bolts evenly, then installing everything back. Also make sure the SC - manifold is secure as I've had an air leak there too previously (solved with a quick clean and a light application of instant gasket).  

Edited by Rosssco, 27 July 2016 - 10:42 AM.

[DaveyC]

Shouldn't make a difference overall as long as the correct spacer collet things are used to align the manifold

 

 

I am very much hoping you may have just cracked it with this one statement.

 

I've had the manifold on and off probably about 5 times for various things, engine swap etc and I'm 99.99% sure I have never seen any of these: http://www.courtenay...c/prod_813.html

[chris_uk]

The solid bung is used to seal the map sensor hole up which is on top of the charger. The ones which look identical but have a m6 hole in and locator plugs for the manifold. When putting the manifold on you have to do the bottom support bolt up last. You need to make sure the manifold seals on the head first.. But.. If it wasnt you would know. Like with that phenolic spacer, if the gaskets fail you get a massive piercing squeal noise as the air escapes. Edit: you also dont "need" them alignment bungs, they just make it easier.

Edited by chris_uk, 27 July 2016 - 11:06 AM.

[Rosssco]

Yep, you need those otherwise you will get a slight mis-alignment when using a Z22SE engine.

 

You can buy them from CS, or alternatively, the cam cover bolts have a very similar collet which can be used (think you need to remove the rubber part - easy).

 

Worth a check.

[vocky]

the easiest method for checking inlet leaks is to use some brake cleaner, with the engine running carefully spray along the joins. If the engine revs alter you have a leak.

[Rosssco]

But.. If it wasnt you would know. Like with that phenolic spacer, if the gaskets fail you get a massive piercing squeal noise as the air escapes.  

 

Mine didn't make any noise if it was indeed a failed gasket, but when I had a SC - manifold leak, yep, it squealed like a little piggy until the SC was producing positive manifold pressure.

[DaveyC]

It is the ones with the holes in them that I've ordered. Also ordered a new gasket to be safe. I do always tighten the M6 bolts before doing the larger bolt for exactly the reason you say Chris. Vocky - I'll give that a go but might be a bit tricky underneath!