47 replies to this topic

[StanTheMan]

Hello,

 

My Vx 220 2.2 is in dry storage and is started up to tick over every 12 - 18 months. Usually the battery needs a full charge too!

 

I have charged the battery, it has fuel topped up, the fuel relay is working and I cant test the fuel pump easily. All of a sudden she just wont start. She turns over fine just wont start. The alarm fob activates & de activates the alarm all ok. I have tried both keys and have the red card with the key code on.

 

I can only assume from a long term dead battery, the code in the chip in the key needs re- programming to the ECU? ( is that the thing around the steering column?)

 

I have a ODB code reader and have no errors codes at all.

 

I have tried to get the software online so i can connect and check the car ecu or what ever it is has the code programmed in from teh key code. But I just cant find the right software, Its either just fault codes readers or code resets.

 

Can you point me in the right direction. I have the "ODB lead to USB" also and a laptop.

 

Do you think I am most likely right?? I have tried both keys and have the red card with the code on.

 

Please help / advise I just want to get it back on the road!!!

 

Kind Regards

 

Stan

 

 

 

P.s I also need a new fuel Relay as I broke the plastic casing pulling mine apart for testing. Any idea where to get them?

     I also need  1 x roof support bar as a fat cat sat on the roof and broke mine!! Any idea where to get them?

[vocky]

if there are no codes then it's unlikely to be the immobiliser, check that there is fuel pressure in the fuel rail - remove the black cover and press down on the bleed nipple (use a cloth to prevent fuel getting everywhere)

[vocky]

ps: the alarm and fobs have nothing to do with the engine starting, they are totally seperate items

[StanTheMan]

I have turned the engine over although it has not started.. I checked the fuel rail for pressure and there is none!

 

I have pressed the fuel cut off switch.

 

When I turn on the ignition I get a couple of clicks at the rear of car, but not a sound of fuel pumping/whirring? But again could this be down the key chip / immoboliser and the battery being flat for months???  If the car doesn't remember the key chip, will the fuel even pump?

[vocky]

the grey fuel pump relay is a standard type, Halfords should have one

 

roof rail = £25.53 + vat + delivery new from Lotus https://www.deroure....C=0&PBID=683339

[vocky]

lack of fuel pressure will be your problem, no fuel pump sound in the first three seconds after the ignition is switched on will mean the engine will not start.

 

It can be the cut off switch, the grey relay in the boot or one of the fuses next to the relays in the boot

 

 

[StanTheMan]

Yeah I realise its nothing to do with the alarm fobs, but what about the rfid chip in the key or what ever its called? If the car doesnt recognise that key it wont start? I had this problem with a vectra when the key fell on the floor and the chip fell out. The car would not start, just turned over and over... I had to get spare key!!

 

Many thanks for taking time to read and reply.

Edited by StanTheMan, 23 April 2019 - 04:25 PM.

[vocky]

a quick test to see of it's the grey relay at fault is to bypass it, connect the Brown/Grey to the White/Violet for a few seconds

 

wiring diagrams

 

https://www.speedste...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

 

https://www.speedste...m/Fuel pump.pdf

[StanTheMan]

The grey relay clicks and seems to be working, but I will replace it anyway just in case and see... and the 2 yellow fuses too. At least then I can rule them out totally.

[vocky]

you should get an immobiliser code if the key loses the coding, but the immobiliser will also cut the fuel

 

DTC P1610 Loss of PZM Serial Data/immobiliser function not programmed
DTC P1612 Loss of IPM Serial Data/Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
DTC P1613 Loss of DIM Serial Data/Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
DTC P1614 Loss of RIM Serial Data/wrong transponder key

 

 

[StanTheMan]

Thank you so much for replies..... I will try the above for now and replace fuse and relay just for ruling them out.

 

Have no codes showing not now and not previously ever. The car has not moved or been driven since the last time it was started so its kind of doing my head in now!! Its just been stored in a dry garage.

 

 

From what else I have read, I feel the car needs to be told the key code in the key chip. ( Not the fob )

Edited by StanTheMan, 23 April 2019 - 04:47 PM.

[smiley]

The grey fuelpump relay can be swapped with the one from the horn at the front as a test.

 

 

Edited by smiley, 23 April 2019 - 04:59 PM.

[StanTheMan]

a quick test to see of it's the grey relay at fault is to bypass it, connect the Brown/Grey to the White/Violet for a few seconds

 

wiring diagrams

 

https://www.speedste...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

 

https://www.speedste...m/Fuel pump.pdf

 

What will this do?? Send power to the fuel pump and  prime / put pressure to the fuel rail??

[vocky]

yes thats correct, it proves if it's the immobiliser or a duff relay. If no fuel pressure then it can be a blown fuse FR2 in the boot or FL4 under the windscreen (just check if there is 12v at the white/violet wire first) or a dead fuel pump

[StanTheMan]

Ok first of all THANK YOU for taking the time to reply & help me gents!!!

 

1) Cigarette Lighter is working so swapped 20amp Fuse with Fuel Pump 20amp Fuse. ( Lighter still working ) Ruled out 20amp Fuse.

 

2) Horn Works... Swapped Horn Relay with Fuel Pump Relay. Horn Still Works. Ruled Out Relay

 

So not change at all at this point.... NO pressure to fuel rail,  just a couple of clicks and no pumping/whirring sound.

 

 

[StanTheMan]

yes thats correct, it proves if it's the immobiliser or a duff relay. If no fuel pressure then it can be a blown fuse FR2 in the boot or FL4 under the windscreen (just check if there is 12v at the white/violet wire first) or a dead fuel pump

 

Sorry to sound thick... I have ruled out the relay and the 20amp fuel pump fuse.

 

Which fuse is the FL4? I have check the 20 and 15amp fuse next to the relays in the front and they seem fine.

 

To be clear are you saying that although the relay is proved to be working now, connecting the white violet wire to the Brown/Grey will also fire up the fuel pump even if the immobiliser is stopping power going to it?? In which case if it pumps then the fuel pump will be proved  to be working?

[StanTheMan]

**EDIT

 

I found the 2 x Red 50amp fuses hidden under the scuttle near the wiper motor. They are fine also. Is one of these FL4?

[vocky]

yes thats the FL4 fuse under the windscreen.

 

If you connect the wires as mentioned above it bypasses the fuel pump immobiliser circuit (but not the internal ecu immobiliser) so you can prove the fuel pump works

 

a good way to check power is okay would be to measure the voltage on the white/violet wire or use a bulb if you don't have a volt meter

[StanTheMan]

Vocky,

 

Thanks again for your time /replies

 

I got a new multimeter as couldn't find mine so took me while!! I am no sparky but have a little knowledge of electrics.

 

Testing White&Violet / Black Wire I got 11.92v.

 

I connected the Brown/Grey to the White/Violet for a couple of seconds... The pump didnt whir/prime but there was a kind of single tap/knock, like something was trying to move but that was all. Each time I bridged the power I got the tap/knock

 

Does this all point to a faulty fuel pump? I guess by the fact there is power at the relay and when bridged power must be going to the pump for it to make that tap/knock sound ( or would this happen somewhere else too) so its unlikely the be the loom between the relay and the pump?? I am only guessing. What are your thoughts, anything else I can test?

 

You said if you connect the wires as mentioned above it bypasses the fuel pump immobiliser circuit (but not the internal ecu immobiliser) so you can prove the fuel pump works. Could it still be the ecu at all from not having power for 6 months or so??

 

Stan

 

Edited by StanTheMan, 16 May 2019 - 02:08 PM.

[vocky]

you have confirmed that 12v power is at the relay (white/violet)

 

the brown/grey wire goes direct to the fuel pump, so by linking that to the white/violet you are providing the fuel pump with 12v power to make it run and thus you should get fuel pressure.

 

Therefore it is pointing towards a dead fuel pump