47 replies to this topic

[StanTheMan]

Damn this was my worst fear... I wouldn't mind but its only done 14k and been off road for about 10 years and just started occasionally!! :-(

 

The fact that it makes that noise ( not knowing how the mechanics of the fuel pump works) makes me wonder if its just stuck / seized through lack of use. Is that possible?? If so would a full tank create more pressure on the pump mechanics possibly aiding it to come into action if stuck? Or can you pump pressure back to the pump via a pump and the fuel rail??? Just thinking out loud?? I so dont want to have to replace it unless I have to,,, EEEK!!! ?? Its had no use and was fine the last I started her...

 

Else time to research the fuel pump replacement I guess...

[vocky]

Spitfire Engineering sell replacement fuel pumps, he is a member on here

[Spitfire Engineering]

Damn this was my worst fear... I wouldn't mind but its only done 14k and been off road for about 10 years and just started occasionally!! :-(

 

The fact that it makes that noise ( not knowing how the mechanics of the fuel pump works) makes me wonder if its just stuck / seized through lack of use. Is that possible?? If so would a full tank create more pressure on the pump mechanics possibly aiding it to come into action if stuck? Or can you pump pressure back to the pump via a pump and the fuel rail??? Just thinking out loud?? I so dont want to have to replace it unless I have to,,, EEEK!!! ?? Its had no use and was fine the last I started her...

 

Else time to research the fuel pump replacement I guess...

 

From your first post I was already expecting the worst.

The problem is most likely old fuel which has attacked the copper internals of the pump but before you do anything just carry out a load check, you will need nimble fingers.

 

Remove the pax seat and the fuel pump cover.

Pull the pump plug locking tab away from the pump socket and pull the harness socket off of the pump.

 

Using a high draw component, i.e a headlamp bulb, connect it to the harness socket. The best cable is a 1.5mm used for domestic lighting as it will push into the socket quite nicely.

 

Turn on the ignition and the bulb should light brightly for about 3 seconds, if it doesn't you may be lucky and it is a cable issue. Check the live first by taking the bulb's earth wire from the socket to another earthing point, then if necessary a new live into the socket to test the earth return.

 

If the bulb does light the pump is fcuked, this is not an expletive but the correct technical term.

 

The good news is we have new pumps and you had to remove the seat and cover anyway so you have not wasted any time.

The tank will need a thorough clean out and a check for rust. Don't be tempted to use the fuel elsewhere just ditch it or save it for a bonfire night starter booster.

 

Good luck, just message if you need more info or help.

 

Gaz

[StanTheMan]

 

Damn this was my worst fear... I wouldn't mind but its only done 14k and been off road for about 10 years and just started occasionally!! :-(

 

The fact that it makes that noise ( not knowing how the mechanics of the fuel pump works) makes me wonder if its just stuck / seized through lack of use. Is that possible?? If so would a full tank create more pressure on the pump mechanics possibly aiding it to come into action if stuck? Or can you pump pressure back to the pump via a pump and the fuel rail??? Just thinking out loud?? I so dont want to have to replace it unless I have to,,, EEEK!!! ?? Its had no use and was fine the last I started her...

 

Else time to research the fuel pump replacement I guess...

 

From your first post I was already expecting the worst.

The problem is most likely old fuel which has attacked the copper internals of the pump but before you do anything just carry out a load check, you will need nimble fingers.

 

Remove the pax seat and the fuel pump cover.

Pull the pump plug locking tab away from the pump socket and pull the harness socket off of the pump.

 

Using a high draw component, i.e a headlamp bulb, connect it to the harness socket. The best cable is a 1.5mm used for domestic lighting as it will push into the socket quite nicely.

 

Turn on the ignition and the bulb should light brightly for about 3 seconds, if it doesn't you may be lucky and it is a cable issue. Check the live first by taking the bulb's earth wire from the socket to another earthing point, then if necessary a new live into the socket to test the earth return.

 

If the bulb does light the pump is fcuked, this is not an expletive but the correct technical term.

 

The good news is we have new pumps and you had to remove the seat and cover anyway so you have not wasted any time.

The tank will need a thorough clean out and a check for rust. Don't be tempted to use the fuel elsewhere just ditch it or save it for a bonfire night starter booster.

 

Good luck, just message if you need more info or help.

 

Gaz

 

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

I suspect you wanted to reply Stan  

[StanTheMan]

Thanks Gaz,

 

I will do that... You are right once the seat it out I am half way there lol

 

What sort of cost / lead time is a replacement fuel pump?

 

Is it a complete unit eg remove old replace with new and a new seal??? Or is it more complicated?? I have seen something a while back that involved cutting and joining wires and replacing the internals of the pump??

 

Do you have any instructions so I can assess my confidence in playing with PETROL/ELECTRIC combination??

 

Thanks for your reply..

 

Stan

 

 

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

Thanks Gaz,

 

I will do that... You are right once the seat it out I am half way there lol

 

What sort of cost / lead time is a replacement fuel pump?

 

Is it a complete unit eg remove old replace with new and a new seal??? Or is it more complicated?? I have seen something a while back that involved cutting and joining wires and replacing the internals of the pump??

 

Do you have any instructions so I can assess my confidence in playing with PETROL/ELECTRIC combination??

 

Thanks for your reply..

 

Stan

 

The new HP pumps are £239 + del and vat but if we can have your old unit you get a £30 discount.

On the shelf.

 

They are complete units with identical fuel spigots but the electrical socket is different (the pins are nearly 4 times the size) so you will need to fit the supplied harness plug. If the harness socket is perfect with no signs of arcing or over heating then we can supply a jump harness if you prefer which just plugs in at both ends but there is a £16 charge for these.

Considering the reason for the obsolescence was the socket overheating then wiring the supplied plug into the harness is the nicer option. However the socket is no longer on the pump so it is not critical and the new HP pump uses the same power as the OE pump anyway, up to you really  

The seal is included and fitted.

Yes the fitting instructions are extensive  

 

Let me know if you need help, email is easier:   spitfire.engineering@gmail.com

 

Gaz

[StanTheMan]

UPDATE!!!

 

Ok just ran another diagnostic scan today out of curiosity with ODB Scanner & have Fault Code P1612.  I must have missed it the first time as I just looked for stored codes and didn't see it or run a diagnostic scan as such!!

 

Vocky you said this was "DTC P1612 Loss of IPM Serial Data/Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal".

 

1)How would I check this please?? Can you explain what it actually means please??

 

2) Would the test we did with the BrownGrey to the White/Violet not by pass the Immboliser /ECU.

 

I also still got to do the check Gaz mentioned previously when I can get to the fuel pump!!!!

 

OMG!! I am at my wits end going round in circles!!

 

Thanks for reading!!

 

 

[vocky]

P1612 means your immobiliser needs reprogramming as it has lost it's settings. Tech 2 or OPCOM is required to do that.

 

The fuel pump should still work if you provide it with 12v, so it sounds like you have two problems.

[StanTheMan]

MMmmmm Well I have cleared the code now and it didn't come back up so we will see...

[smiley]

If the ecu lost the code to your key, it can sometimes happen that the spare key entry is still in.
Have you tried your spare?

 

[StanTheMan]

Yeah tried both keys!! :-/  Cleared code for now and see what happens!!

 

I was trying to find the software to connect the laptop to the ECU to see what was stored but not found anything that works yet!!! :-(

[smiley]

You need opcom for programming keys.

[Steviejay]

Did you sort this in the end? What was it?

[StanTheMan]

Did you sort this in the end? What was it?

 

No still not got round to it....Kinda muddled about the whole thing.

 

Don't want to replace fuel pump ( mainly due to the work involved) if its to do with the ECU / keycode....  Is on my list of things to do.

 

To be fair its been in in my garage since 2008. I bought it new in 2003 and only done about 15k miles.

[xiodene]

you have confirmed that 12v power is at the relay (white/violet)

 

the brown/grey wire goes direct to the fuel pump, so by linking that to the white/violet you are providing the fuel pump with 12v power to make it run and thus you should get fuel pressure.

 

Therefore it is pointing towards a dead fuel pump

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a similar issue I am trying to figure out.

 

I put my multimeter across the white/violet and black wire but im getting 0v. I have tried it with two different relays, one being the horn so I know it works. But still 0v. Ignition was on and I had 13 volts t the battery

 

What would be the next thing to look at?

 

(I forgot to say my issue, car non starter, no fuel pump priming. http://www.vx220.org...car-wont-start/

Edited by xiodene, 27 August 2019 - 07:28 PM.

[Exmantaa]

 

you have confirmed that 12v power is at the relay (white/violet)

 

the brown/grey wire goes direct to the fuel pump, so by linking that to the white/violet you are providing the fuel pump with 12v power to make it run and thus you should get fuel pressure.

 

Therefore it is pointing towards a dead fuel pump

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a similar issue I am trying to figure out.

 

I put my multimeter across the white/violet and black wire but im getting 0v. I have tried it with two different relays, one being the horn so I know it works. But still 0v. Ignition was on and I had 13 volts t the battery

 

What would be the next thing to look at?

 

(I forgot to say my issue, car non starter, no fuel pump priming. http://www.vx220.org...car-wont-start/

 

 

So you're measuring on the (K16) relay and get no voltage on the thick 2mm white/violet feed wire? (Ignition on. Black should be a ground; check continuity to f.i. engine block)

 

Check fuel cut-off switch near the gearbox. (Press it. You get 12v on 1 (violet) feed wire?)  Check 20A fuse(s) near the rear relays.

 

Check the other relay (K18) if you have +12v on pin 5 (Red/brown wire ) with ignition on. (And also +12v on the other, pink/brown wire)

Check if you have +12v on the thick 3mm brown feed wire; pin 3.

 

All here: https://www.speedste...gram/index.html

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Exmantaa, 27 August 2019 - 10:34 PM.

[xiodene]

Right I have just been out to look at this.

I get continuity between the ground and the engine block.

After alot of poking around I finally got the thick 3mm brown feed wire, but it was really hard to get a decent reading, surely touching the metal and the engine block should just show the voltage? I was often getting no reading but occasionally t went to 10-14volts.

 

However no amount of poking and prodding got any reading from the 2mm white/violet, brown/violet or brown/red.

 

Where abouts is the violet feed wire fro the fuel cut off switch?

Sorry for the stupid questions, im not great with wires!

[vocky]

red with a blue stripe should go to one of the fuses in the boot, near the three NA relays, the other side of the fuse should be a violet. Both should have +12v if the fuse is okay, when ignition is on. Power comes from the brown relay.

 

Check if the larger brown wires have +12v on the brown relay, if neither have +12v then the front fuse underneath the windscreen is possibly blown

 

Brown relay has five wires and the grey has four wires.

[xiodene]

Just checked this.

Both red fuses are ok.

 

Brown relay at the back i can only get voltage at one of the thick brown wires.

As you look at the wires there is brown/pink, brown, brown. I get voltage at the third brown wire but neither of the others.

Does that point to the brown relay being the issue? Would this stop the fuel pump priming?