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Weapon R Exhaust Manifold


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#61 OneYet

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 01:49 PM

I'm still trying to convince my wife she needs a vx220, she wants a :9mm: TT .

Take her to see one in real life. My wife was very hesistant about a VX until I took her to see clipping_points silver one.
After that it was no problems. thumbsup
And she doesn´t even like silvercoloured cars

Come to think of it, I think it was the VX that made it, it might have been clipping_points charm :)

It was definatly clipping_points VX-tour around town that made me want one more than ever :D

Sorry! Maybe a little out off topic here

#62 clipping_point

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 02:19 PM

With this car, seeing one close-up is wanting one. Even Scorpion bought his after seeing mine on the company parking lot :lol:

#63 clipping_point

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 04:05 PM

Little less ugly looking piccy :lol:

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Edited by clipping_point, 02 December 2004 - 04:09 PM.


#64 vocky

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 04:16 PM

Your drawings are getting better :D I searched for 'stainless exhaust manufacturers' to find a supply of extra pipe, you should be able to find somewhere local. The trick is not to try and use every bit of the wR just because you have it, it is better to add new sections to create a nice smooth flow :D

Edited by vocky, 02 December 2004 - 04:18 PM.


#65 clipping_point

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 04:23 PM

Yeah, I may use the 2-2 flange and the 2-1 junction "casing" only. Seem a bit complicated to reuse the wR pipes, given the complex geometry.

#66 vocky

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 04:28 PM

good idea, cut the 2-2 flange off - remove the pipe which is welded into this bit (plenty of filing / grinding), with the 2-1 'Y' piece cut the actual 'Y' piece not the pipes - you loose @5mm but it is so much easier to reweld (you end up with a sort of wierd funnel)

#67 clipping_point

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 04:42 PM

good idea, cut the 2-2 flange off - remove the pipe which is welded into this bit (plenty of filing / grinding),

with the 2-1 'Y' piece cut the actual 'Y' piece not the pipes - you loose @5mm but it is so much easier to reweld (you end up with a sort of wierd funnel)

Can u show a bit more in piccy...explain kinda..........

chinky chinky

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#68 vocky

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 04:51 PM

been trying :lol: to create a pic but too much bytes, waited for your expertise :D red = cut blue = original weld cut right next to weld and remove pipes (the two round pipes will be still welded together)

Edited by vocky, 02 December 2004 - 05:01 PM.


#69 skogshuggarn

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 05:00 PM

How long does the second runners have to be?? Will it affect much if they are to long or to short? BTW. Great pics thumbsup what class in kindergarten did we say this was :lol:

Edited by skogshuggarn, 02 December 2004 - 05:01 PM.


#70 vocky

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 05:03 PM

longer is better than shorter, but the limitation is the room available, my vectra pipes are very short @150mm, clipping point's should be a good length :D I'm still using crayons :lol: :lol: :lol:

Edited by vocky, 02 December 2004 - 05:04 PM.


#71 clipping_point

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 06:23 PM

Great! Yeah, I´m aiming for 500 mm something. However most important should be to keep them equal length

#72 clipping_point

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Posted 04 December 2004 - 03:29 PM

Oops 500 mm....no not really the standard wR is 26 and 23 cm, which is pretty strange, but I may be aiming for 300 mm, equal length. Here are the parts, the funnel & flange taken away from the wR 2-1 piece.

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Edited by clipping_point, 04 December 2004 - 03:30 PM.


#73 vocky

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Posted 04 December 2004 - 04:28 PM

do not forget to remove the remaining pipe from inside the two flange holes :wacko: , then the new pipe sits in the holes and will be a stronger joint :D the funnel bit is ready for the new pipe without any filing/grinding :D

#74 clipping_point

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Posted 04 December 2004 - 04:36 PM

Yes, it´ll take some filing and grinding, so I can insert the pipe in the flange prior to welding it. I have to find a supplier of pipes nearby, as well as supply the garage with 400 V electricity before I can start welding. thumbsup

#75 vocky

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Posted 04 December 2004 - 05:00 PM

when its finished all the effort will be worth it :groupjump:

#76 clipping_point

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 05:51 PM

A buddy and I took out the angle-grinder to see how the wR would fit with the rear clam

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Edited by clipping_point, 05 December 2004 - 05:57 PM.


#77 clipping_point

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 06:00 PM

The wR will take much of the boot at all, but it will need some work! thumbsup

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#78 clipping_point

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 06:03 PM

Above the wR there is about 30-40 mm for insulation

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#79 clipping_point

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 06:07 PM

Also the boot lock will take some insulation work, but not too difficult, I hope!

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#80 clipping_point

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Posted 06 December 2004 - 07:00 AM

This is how the Weapon R interfere with the boot (approximately)

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