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Interesting Discussion On Seloc About Corrosion On Lotus Cars


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#61 JG

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 06:13 PM

Though i do find that if i keep on top of it, it is precious little effort. and even when left a while tends to still look ok

Posted Image

i'll stop now. promise.

#62 robin

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 08:34 PM

bloody hell i was only going to paint the top brackets for the shocks now just seen your abs unit painted :rolleyes:

#63 JG

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 08:35 PM

its powder coated :D

#64 TheStotts

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 08:57 AM

This is a thread I hoped I wouldn't be contributing to... Car went into Guglielmi yesterday for a service and MOT. I'm not sure how bad it is but Steve said the car was showing early signs of galvanic corrosion between the chassis and the rear sub frame :( Is this the seam you can see through the rear wheel arches? I'm guessing this will also be visible once the rear undertray is off? Will have a look and get some pics up over the weekend. Unfortunately I was in a bit of a rush when I picked up the car but Steve did mention treatment with ACF50. Unrelated but it also looks like my rear callipers are shot. Good excuse to buy a nice new shiny set though B)

#65 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 09:14 AM

Sorry to hear that. I used Duralec when I put my new rear subframe on, hopefully that will do the job.

#66 FLD

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 09:22 AM

I ACF50'd mine and the used a load of duralac on mine. ACF50 is used on aeroplanes where the engine mounts meet the bulkhead. This area is prone to corrosion / pitting and regular (annual) treatment with ACF50 keeps it at bay even if you've got some pits there already. Keep on top of it and it should be fine.

#67 FLD

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 09:23 AM

The question I have is 'what the hell is JG using on his brake discs to keep them theat nice?'.

#68 siztenboots

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 09:38 AM

baby oil

#69 NickB787

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 09:55 AM

best place for ACF50? demon tweaks want £8.00 delivery

#70 hairy

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 09:58 AM

try your local boat chandlers

#71 Goosenka

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 10:02 AM

baby oil


:lol:

#72 FLD

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 10:13 AM

If I didn't know better I'd suspect a 'special' set that gets swapped on for photo's.

#73 simsy

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 11:06 AM

Can be fixed, but it will not be undetectable, just servicable afterwards, and never quite the same... Just like the insurance companies never repairing these mounting points after a crash.... I have fixed one or two my self...... (not current vx)

#74 FLD

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:17 PM

Can be fixed, but it will not be undetectable, just servicable afterwards, and never quite the same... Just like the insurance companies never repairing these mounting points after a crash....

I have fixed one or two my self...... (not current vx)


Thats interesting. Whats the fix for the subframe mounting point? I mulled it over when someone else mentioned it and my thought was to obtain the extrusion pieces that make up the junction from a scrapper, melt the original glue to remove the old ones and glue on the replacements with ambient cure epoxy. I assume there is another way?

#75 TheStotts

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:36 PM

Sorry to hear that. I used Duralec when I put my new rear subframe on, hopefully that will do the job.


Cheers. Worse things (probably more corrosion at least) happen at sea :)

I ACF50'd mine and the used a load of duralac on mine. ACF50 is used on aeroplanes where the engine mounts meet the bulkhead. This area is prone to corrosion / pitting and regular (annual) treatment with ACF50 keeps it at bay even if you've got some pits there already. Keep on top of it and it should be fine.


Thanks for the reassurance. Steve has been servicing the car for 3 years and this is the first time he's seen it so hopefully early stages thumbsup


Can be fixed, but it will not be undetectable, just servicable afterwards, and never quite the same... Just like the insurance companies never repairing these mounting points after a crash....

I have fixed one or two my self...... (not current vx)


Thats interesting. Whats the fix for the subframe mounting point? I mulled it over when someone else mentioned it and my thought was to obtain the extrusion pieces that make up the junction from a scrapper, melt the original glue to remove the old ones and glue on the replacements with ambient cure epoxy. I assume there is another way?


:yeahthat:

Interesting to see what fix options are available thumbsup

Edited by TheStotts, 01 June 2012 - 12:50 PM.


#76 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:40 PM

best place for ACF50? demon tweaks want £8.00 delivery


No, they want £13.94 for the spray. They are about as cheap as it gets Nick.

#77 JG

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:40 PM

The question I have is 'what the hell is JG using on his brake discs to keep them theat nice?'.


Zinc plated by CRN, and then painted by me. cleaned wth a halfords decreaser from time to time. No show discs :P

#78 JG

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:40 PM


best place for ACF50? demon tweaks want £8.00 delivery


No, they want £13.94 for the spray. They are about as cheap as it gets Nick.


:yeahthat:

last for bloody ages though.

#79 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:55 PM

Just bought off eBay at £13.97 inc VAT and delivery.

#80 FLD

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:56 PM


The question I have is 'what the hell is JG using on his brake discs to keep them theat nice?'.


Zinc plated by CRN, and then painted by me. cleaned wth a halfords decreaser from time to time. No show discs :P


Does the zinc plate affect the braking over the first few miles? I could soon plate a set. With my satin wishbones rather than gloss and my gaz's my car will soon look like a slightly dirtier and slightly pikier version of yours.




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