167 replies to this topic

[Bumblebee]

When I was at 250hp I plugged the laptop in and it showed after a few runs it was running near standard power

[vx220Tim]

I have a charge cooler in my Lotus Carlton that I have owned for 18 years now (fitted as std) they are considered a better (more efficient) way to reduce inlet temps that intercoolers for sure. I am starting to think I should just stick at 220 bhp and 220 lbs/ft and nice low boost as its lots less temp. and stress and feels ok. Maybe better to do a track day or two and then up it if needed. The other thing I have been considering is my mate and his Elise. If I get any more power we will not be able to play together as I am already a fair bit more powerful than his 135bhp all be it that he has better tyres, Nitrons and 775Kg to help balance it a bit!

Cheers again for everyone's input.

 

By the way I started the thread to get some performance bits offered, such as a charge cooler, vxr turbo, etc.. After 6 pages not been offered anything so another reason to keep as is!  

 

[vx220Tim]

When I was at 250hp I plugged the laptop in and it showed after a few runs it was running near standard power

How do you mean Paul? 

[scw02102]

When I was at 250hp I plugged the laptop in and it showed after a few runs it was running near standard power

 

How long before the ECU gives all the power back?

 

E.G 250bhp - race around temps climb, the ECU backs off the power to allow the car to cool

 

how long before you get the max power again?

[smiley]

 

How long before the ECU gives all the power back?

 

 

I would be interested in that in general.

I can see via the obd gauge that i can go back under 57 intake temp very fast once i start getting in air again, but no idea if the ecu follows that quick also.

Edited by smiley, 11 November 2014 - 01:14 PM.

[slindborg]

it would feed it back slowly so as not to upset the cooling effects, but as the engine would be soaked, it wont take long (ie less time than the first instance) to get back to high intake temps.

 

 

 

 

[mbes2]

I thought heat soak happens when there is less air flow to maintain cooling. A intercooler would be then effected. A chargecooler is a rad system to keep water flow maintained more so

[vx220Tim]

Ps I have read that all VXT's on 05 have had the Upgraded ABS unit. Which is better on the road than the previous one. But still best to remove sensor wire on track.

 

Does this sound right?

[mbes2]

Ps I have read that all VXT's on 05 have had the Upgraded ABS unit. Which is better on the road than the previous one. But still best to remove sensor wire on track.

 

Does this sound right?

 

Some like it on , some like it off.

 

I like having it off. 

[rob999]

Never heard that one, they were still 'dodgy' 2 channel units.

Edited by rob999, 11 November 2014 - 03:52 PM.

[slindborg]

There was a software update to try and make it less sh*t, this was a rework (not recall before anyone gets their minge in a twist ) and I think most wound up with it

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

performance upgrades?

 

driver training

 

 

[WrightStuff]

Ps I have read that all VXT's on 05 have had the Upgraded ABS unit. Which is better on the road than the previous one. But still best to remove sensor wire on track.

 

Does this sound right?

 

Disconnect it on track. Getting the dreaded 'hard pedal' as you hurtle towards a bend will destroy your confidence in the brakes.

[vx220Tim]

 

Ps I have read that all VXT's on 05 have had the Upgraded ABS unit. Which is better on the road than the previous one. But still best to remove sensor wire on track.

 

Does this sound right?

 

Disconnect it on track. Getting the dreaded 'hard pedal' as you hurtle towards a bend will destroy your confidence in the brakes.

 

Will do Wright stuff for sure. I have seen a lotus development  guy's post (Rockstar) and he says all VXT's had the upgraded ABS which works better on the road.

[PaulCP]

Not sure the software update for he ABS was much of an improvement TBH, but best just to try it and do whatever suits you. Chris (Wrightstuff) has a good point about the hard pedal on track, and the 16"/17" set up may not help. Some like it left on all the time others not so, as I say, try to find what suits you and your driving style.

[P11 COV]

 

 

Ps I have read that all VXT's on 05 have had the Upgraded ABS unit. Which is better on the road than the previous one. But still best to remove sensor wire on track.

 

Does this sound right?

 

Disconnect it on track. Getting the dreaded 'hard pedal' as you hurtle towards a bend will destroy your confidence in the brakes.

 

Will do Wright stuff for sure. I have seen a lotus development  guy's post (Rockstar) and he says all VXT's had the upgraded ABS which works better on the road.

 

 

Personally I have never found the actual ABS operation on road an issue. It works as it should. The issue is that when it is on and you go very quickly from accelerator to brake, as you would on track, you initially get a hard pedal. You either back off the brakes and then on again or push harder and eventually the pedal sinks to its proper level and works. As Chris says this can be unnerving on track. Best leave the ABS off on track and use the ABS built into your right foot. Thats why a switch is a good idea so you can quickly put it back on on the road (probably better insurance wise in an accident claim too).  I must admit I am a little lazy and  forget to switch it back on after track days.

[manus]

Personally I have never found the actual ABS operation on road an issue. It works as it should. The issue is that when it is on and you go very quickly from accelerator to brake, as you would on track, you initially get a hard pedal. You either back off the brakes and then on again or push harder and eventually the pedal sinks to its proper level and works. As Chris says this can be unnerving on track. Best leave the ABS off on track and use the ABS built into your right foot. Thats why a switch is a good idea so you can quickly put it back on on the road (probably better insurance wise in an accident claim too). I must admit I am a little lazy and forget to switch it back on after track days.

I'm not good at electronics, but should it not be possible to make a relais-switch that disconnects at single press of a button and reconnects as soon as power is off? That way a single push would disable ABS untill next start of the car. You wouln't be able to forget.

Edited by manus, 11 November 2014 - 05:32 PM.

[scw02102]

I have a late 55 plate and the ABS is pants so if its an upgrade is poor and not worth it kicks in to easily, a massively minders the breaks Best way around is to disable or apply the brakes then progressively harder if that makes sense. Helps stop the ABS activating, appose to jumping on the brakes heavily

[scw02102]

As for intake temp I notice my climb quickly when on hard acceleration but falls very quickly once you back off On a track where its constant I can see the requirement for a bigger inter cooler or ideally a charger cooler. On the road with the occasion full throttle only allowing for a matter of seconds before you have to back off you can get away without under 250bhp in my eyes, providing the ECU gives you the power back quick enough??????

[Ormes]

 

At 245bhp/255 ft lbs, my IATs are fine on the road, as hard driving can never be sustained enough to overwhelm the standard IC, however on track, my passenger advised I was reaching 75 degrees on the straights at Pembery, which really isn't good, but did recover fairly quickly.

 

On the subject of ABS, I have tried on and off on the road (switch fitted), made next to no difference.  On track, ran with it on and didn't even trigger the ABS once or get hard pedal, but then it was my first TD and clearly wasn't trying hard enough