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Still No Life.....even After Relay Swap


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#21 s-express

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Posted 12 March 2015 - 10:41 PM

Inertia switch in corner of engine bay?

#22 vocky

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 10:10 AM

you need to check the following;

 

Brown relay

86 = coil - 12v (supplied by fuse FL4) - brown

85 = coil - 0v (switched by ecu) - green/pink

30 = 12v (supplied by fuse FL4) - brown

87 + 87A = 12v (outputs) - brown/pink + brown

 

Grey relay

86 = coil - 0v - black

85 = coil - 12v (switched by ecu) - white/violet (0.5mm)

30 = 12v (supplied by fuel cut off circuit, fuse FR4) - white/violet (2mm)

87 = 12v (output) - brown/grey


Edited by vocky, 13 March 2015 - 10:13 AM.


#23 techieboy

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 10:12 AM

+ check the cut off switch wiring. Cliffie had to bypass his at one of the Anglesey National's as it had a duff connection.

#24 vocky

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 10:15 AM

+ check the cut off switch wiring. Cliffie had to bypass his at one of the Anglesey National's as it had a duff connection.

easiest way to check is do you have 12v at the (2mm) white/violet on the grey relay  :)


Edited by vocky, 13 March 2015 - 10:15 AM.


#25 gingerjon

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 02:35 PM

Right, investigations so far today : Checked brown relay and connector - working fine Checked grey relay and connector - working fine but my black wire goes to 85 and white/purple goes to 86 not as Vocky suggests above (black wire a 0v - there is 7.89v between 85 and 86 Fuses in box all fine Temperature on stack flashing 999 Scangauge 2 just says "connecting" No EML light No fuel pump Whire C9ntinuity in fuel cut off switch circuit Checked continuity between cut off switch and pin 87 on relay and its fine Brown and grey relays both "switch" when connected directly to battery Linked pin 87 and 12v to try and power the fuel pump - still no fuel pump action Next suggestions?

#26 gingerjon

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 02:44 PM

12V directly to fuel pump primes it.

#27 gingerjon

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 02:47 PM

Seems the ECU is only giving 7.8v to the grey relay connector.....this is the issue. New ECU the only solution?

#28 vocky

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 04:22 PM

it does sound like the ecu has been fried by the melted relays  :(​ 



#29 VX220BOB

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 04:24 PM

Right, investigations so far today : Checked brown relay and connector - working fine Checked grey relay and connector - working fine but my black wire goes to 85 and white/purple goes to 86 not as Vocky suggests above (black wire a 0v - there is 7.89v between 85 and 86 Fuses in box all fine Temperature on stack flashing 999 Scangauge 2 just says "connecting" No EML light No fuel pump Whire C9ntinuity in fuel cut off switch circuit Checked continuity between cut off switch and pin 87 on relay and its fine Brown and grey relays both "switch" when connected directly to battery Linked pin 87 and 12v to try and power the fuel pump - still no fuel pump action Next suggestions?

I once had the temp light flashing 999 and had error code P1681 = ECU power interruption due to flat battery. removed the battery leads for 10mins and reconnect to a new battery then the alarm set off, switched the alarm off then it started, its been ok since then. The error code P1681 only appeared when the car first stared cleared the error then ok.

Edited by VX220BOB, 14 March 2015 - 04:28 PM.


#30 vocky

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 04:29 PM

don't forget to check the 'loom of doom' plugs again before replacing the ecu



#31 gingerjon

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:01 PM

Thanks again for everyones replies! :grouphug:

 

Bob, the battery has been disconnected and changed a few time sover the last 2 weeks so think i woudl have already covered that. thumbsup

 

Vocky - Bugger. I thought so. I have unplugged the main loom connections again last week and ensured they are clean and connected properly so i think they are OK too. thumbsup

 

rantCan't believe it at the moment, the car has had so much money spent on it and STILL finds new things to go wrong and stop me getting it back on the road!!! :ffs:  



#32 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:10 PM

Thanks again for everyones replies! :grouphug:   Bob, the battery has been disconnected and changed a few time sover the last 2 weeks so think i woudl have already covered that. thumbsup   Vocky - Bugger. I thought so. I have unplugged the main loom connections again last week and ensured they are clean and connected properly so i think they are OK too. thumbsup   rantCan't believe it at the moment, the car has had so much money spent on it and STILL finds new things to go wrong and stop me getting it back on the road!!! :ffs:  

Time to spend on dutch software ? I would see if anyone local can swap in there's first

#33 gingerjon

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:43 PM

Just can't warrent the money going Dutch. I just want the car back on the road, the SC won't be happening now so that i can actually drive the thing for a while. Been off the road for almost 3 years has become a huge money pit and if i tried to sell it now i doubt id get the money back for the Modifications let alone the money i bought it for 8 years ago!



#34 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:45 PM

👍 I'm sure you will get there

#35 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:46 PM

And when you start driving again you will be happy again

#36 gingerjon

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 04:29 PM

OkeyDokey....another day, another piece of the puzzle bought. :rolleyes:

 

I managed to get a 2.2 ECU on the Bay last night with Chip and Transponder Ring - Part code : 12202143 says fro 2.2 Vauxhall, but not sure which "2.2".

 

So my simple question is....What Next!?!?!?!

 

I Have read a good few threads on here and :

Some people say you can add all 3 new pieces and it's fine?

Some say you need the 4 digit code....which obvioulsy i don't have so there is another £40 to Vauxhall!!!

Some say you need a Tech2....they are not cheap are they!!! :huh:

Need an OPCOM - Will a Scangauge do the same thing?

It needs to be sent it to Courtneys to be done?

 

Answers.... not on a postcard....but just below would be great! Thanks all!  thumbsup

 



#37 vocky

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 05:36 PM

replace ecu and transponder ring, then remove the old key chip and fit the new one. 

 

Thats it  thumbsup

 

ps: I believe you need the log book from the donor vehicle to order the ecu code from the dealers, which means you may not be able to pair another key chip to it.


Edited by vocky, 15 March 2015 - 05:36 PM.


#38 gingerjon

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 06:17 PM

Thanks Vocky, just opened my key, and the spare and the chip is stuck solid?

 

Is it a new key job?

 

Yep, i saw about the log book, i have asked the seller if her knows the security code for the ECU. If not, am i limited to one key? Tense! :)



#39 rhoran00

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 07:05 PM

A decent auto electritian should be able to read the code from the immobiliser and either reprogram or or at the very least, tell you what the code is :)

#40 gingerjon

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Posted 06 April 2015 - 11:14 AM

Okeydokey, an update. Nee ECU, Transponder and Chip installed.....still nothing. Car still trys to fire up but fuel pump still not priming? Next idea?




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