1266 replies to this topic

[Doctor Ed]

Ok, so you're just interrupting a wheel speed sensor, the abs computer detects the fault, throws a code (dash light) and turns itself off. Neat! I'll drag a multimeter with me next time and check out those tesla wheel hubs too. See if I can get a passive voltage out of them just spinning the hub.

Edited by Doctor Ed, 18 July 2016 - 08:04 AM.

[Arno]

Hall sensors don't always need 3 wires.
 
Yes, they need power to operate instead of 'self powered' operation of inductive sensors, but you can play with voltage dividers and current detection in electronics to both feed Hall sensors with power and then detect the feedback pulses on the same lines.
 
Eg traditional 3 wire left, 2 wire right:
 

 
That's how these OEM ones operate. I suspect that getting rid of an extra copper conductor is sufficient cost saving to make a little more electronic circuitry feasible
 
Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

took a multimeter to it today, infinite resistance across the pins, and no measurable AC voltage giving the hub a spin by hand. Guess it's a HE setup afterall. Well that sucks. New hubs here we come...

[Doctor Ed]

Ps... Lucas vs skf vs generic hubs? Any preference? Skf obviously have a good industry reputation, but they are double the price.

[Bargi]

took a multimeter to it today, infinite resistance across the pins, and no measurable AC voltage giving the hub a spin by hand. Guess it's a HE setup afterall. Well that sucks. New hubs here we come...

Arno is all knowing... You'll want to disconnect your rear right ABS sensor to stop hard pedal and DRP.

[Doctor Ed]

Random note to self/internet land, and a handy way to keep oriented and motivated. Knocked over the airbag module swap (busted a mounting stud, took 3x as long as it should've), and attacked the radio wiring harness today in order to repurpose the (20A fused, and Davies Craig list peak draw of 6.5A, so I'm good) power supply for the IC thermofan and dash controller. Drilled the footwell, installed grommets, and ran the needed cableage. Stole some weatherproof loom plugs from the donor car, and basically laid sh*t out. Just waiting for eBay to deliver my sexy fabric loom tape so I can blend everything in all OEM stylez. Also decided, seeing as pretty much every-single-goddamn-bolt on this car has been touched, that I need to get some maker paint and start marking the fasteners that have been torqued. I'm getting old. So, next play: donor car rear clam removal This is seriously the rustiest car I think I've worked on. Not only steel rust, but aluminum corrosion and electrolysis. Every fcuking nutsert is seized to its bolt, and of course, spins in its panel. hopefully the rear clam isn't hiding another handful of awesome "how the fcuk to I cut these bolts out" surprises. So, donor rear clam off. Disassemble (cutting disc) the exhaust, and get me my rear subframe. Weight reduction, sandblast and powdercoat, reinstall onto my chassis, install rear suspension. Mount wheels, inflate tyres, drop onto ground. I like the sound of that! (Although it'll go straight back up into blocks as I then need to attack the fuel system). Other bugging mini-projects along the way... Run door open switch sub harnesses through the sills and finish up the loom behind the dash. attack shifter linkage for short-shiftery goodness, and get the center console finished. Get seat mounts CAD'd up and cut/folded/finished. Get the suckers in. Modify rear firewall so I can mount the PWR core on ten engine side, make new cosmetic interior panel to then cover this all up. Make harness bar. Reinstall cage, belts and harnesses. Then I can start looking at getting this engine in!

[Doctor Ed]

You'll want to disconnect your rear right ABS sensor to stop hard pedal and DRP.

I have a switch to solve that (Yellow solid wire that disconnects nsf sensor). Anything special about the rear right sensor?

[Bargi]

Disable a front sensor disables ABS(ice mode) Disable a rear as well disables DRP.(hard pedal when breaking quickly in track) Rear left sensor is used for speedo so rear right is only option to disable. Full details in my post http://www.vx220.org...on-track/page-2 If your car isn't road going just replace the rear left hub/abs sensor as that's all the stock ECU needs to run properly. If it doesn't see signal for speedo the ECU will run like crap and try stall on you all the time. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

[Bargi]

Ah just saw you want it register able. Guess you could still replace the rear left and just dummy wire up the others. Although then you'd have the ABS light which I'm guessing is a registration fail. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

[Doctor Ed]

Excellent post (the one you linked) thanks! Would disabling -only- the rear right sensor also disable the ABS? Kill two birds with one stone?

[stu8v]

When on track I just unplugged the whole abs plug, no ill issues at all.

 

Yes I lost the speedo but gained so much better brakes.

[Arno]

Ps... Lucas vs skf vs generic hubs? Any preference? Skf obviously have a good industry reputation, but they are double the price.

Most pattern parts should be OK. The bearings are pretty 'over spec' for these cars as they were meant to handle 1.5 to 2 tonne cars..

 

The only key thing to keep an eye out for is that the OEM ones and 'brand' aftermarket are double-row ball bearing hub units where the bearing races are peened over during manufacture. This 'locks' the bearing together and allows the front hubs to run without a clamping bolt (although it does not hurt to help stabilise the bearing under side loading).

 

However.. Some cheap/noname aftermarket ones have been built internally with more generic tapered roller-bearings. These bearings are not 'captive' by design and *must* be clamped together to stay in 1 piece. No problem on the driven wheels as the axle is there and tightened, but the fronts will then need the central M16 hub bolt fitted or these bearings will fail in very short order.

 

Eg: https://www.elisepar...6-hub-bolt-kit/

 

Once clamped and torqued correctly these should be fine though depending on the quality of the bearings uses.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

A little bit of electrical wizardry ...
Speed sensor interruption circuits at the ABS unit, running to 2 independent toggle switches on the dash. Each disconnects either LF wheel speed sensor (solid yellow wire - blue interruption circuit) to knock out the ABS function, the other RR wheel speed sensor (solid red wire - brown interruption circuit) to knock out DRP function. Made the circuits twisted strand, and will wrap them up with fabric loom tape. Looks all very elneato.



Random workspace shot as I left last night:

[Doctor Ed]

A20NFT loom + flashed ecu currently in Dominik's capable hands...

[BadCop]

 which one do I cut - the red one - yellow or purple or... ALL of them

 

 

I'm splitting the loom atm so you just have to unplug two connectors from the ECM to take the engine in and out.

 

not necessary but nice to have 

 

Also getting rid of Automatic transmission wires and A/C wires

[Doctor Ed]

Words cannot begin to describe how much I suck at wiring conversions, and Dominik almost sounds like he's enjoying this! Sadist!

Edited by Doctor Ed, 23 July 2016 - 05:18 PM.

[Rosssco]

There you go, bargain.. http://classifieds.s...s-with-sensors/

[Doctor Ed]

i bought my entire vxt donor car for less than that! Lol

[Doctor Ed]

why lying to wives was invented

[smiley]

The same wives that always buy 50 euro shoes and handbags....

Edited by smiley, 04 August 2016 - 05:50 AM.