130 replies to this topic

[chickendippers]

Main question is are you happy with how the car drives now? That's all that matters

[LordRagnar]

Yes its awesome! 

[james4563]

Might be a silly suggestion but....

Is there any chance the car slipped/lost traction on the dyno? Which resulted in the first weird graph and then the 2nd time it was run which seems to be a different day it simply didn't slip? Is the car more/less likely the wheel spin based on how tight it's tied down?

 

Example:

 

http://www.bimmerboo...254829405-1.jpg

 

http://www.boostaddi...raph-looks-like

 

 

 Here is what wheelspin looks like on the dyno and what a 2000+ horsepower Nissan GTR Dynojet graph looks like

 

Edited by james4563, 23 March 2017 - 02:30 PM.

[slindborg]

Is the car more/less likely the wheel spin based on how tight it's tied down?

 

 

 

Thorney, is that you?

[james4563]

 

Is the car more/less likely to wheel spin based on how tight it's tied down?

 

 

 

 

Thorney, is that you?

 

 

Some inside joke? Or did I just say something really stupid? Other than the typo ( the = to )  

[slindborg]

faaaahhhhhsands of years ago (in forum time), there was some discrepencey between power outputs of the N/A "stage tuning" folks... Then one day it was all revelaed to be the strapping down process had cause the N/A's to lose more power than they should have

 

 

Now, technically this is a viable statement, but for it to be applicable to only one type of car is bulllsheeeet.

 

Note some details might be slightly blurred

[james4563]

faaaahhhhhsands of years ago (in forum time), there was some discrepencey between power outputs of the N/A "stage tuning" folks... Then one day it was all revelaed to be the strapping down process had cause the N/A's to lose more power than they should have

 

 

Now, technically this is a viable statement, but for it to be applicable to only one type of car is bulllsheeeet.

 

Note some details might be slightly blurred

 

Thanks for explaination

 

Regal strapped mine down via the door striker pins. It didn't look the best way and when I questioned it they told me that you don't actually need to strap it down, it wouldn't go anywhere even without straps! Not sure I'd wana risk it tho! haha

[slindborg]

 

faaaahhhhhsands of years ago (in forum time), there was some discrepencey between power outputs of the N/A "stage tuning" folks... Then one day it was all revelaed to be the strapping down process had cause the N/A's to lose more power than they should have

 

 

Now, technically this is a viable statement, but for it to be applicable to only one type of car is bulllsheeeet.

 

Note some details might be slightly blurred

 

Thanks for explaination

 

Regal strapped mine down via the door striker pins. It didn't look the best way and when I questioned it they told me that you don't actually need to strap it down, it wouldn't go anywhere even without straps! Not sure I'd wana risk it tho! haha

 

 

Feck, lageR in "not being totally wrong but still being dicks" shocker  

[LordRagnar]

No it wasn't that cos as soon as he felt it wheel spin he stopped and had the straps tightened before any readings where done, In my particular case it was all down to the fuse.

[mbes2]

When you going to stage 4 then ?

[NOSBandit]

Mine was strapped down by the rear subframe, nice and tight and no spin at all. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[jim61]

Can't believe anyone would tie down from there ? (Door striker pins )

Edited by jim61, 23 March 2017 - 06:28 PM.

[Exmantaa]

 

 

I can explain the ABS thing with logic

 

The only link between ABS module and ECU is the speed signal ,  the same speed signal that goes to the instrument cluster

 

So the the power is cut by the ecu because of the speed

 

ABS fuse out ,  speed signal gone

 

I have looked over the circuits because I am genuinely interested in this stuff,   

 

given all the evidence this is the only conclusion 

 

 

 

This doesn't make sense because the speed signal comes from the nearside rear wheel sensor which would be giving the correct speed reading?? 

 

 

the speed signal from the sensor still has to go via the ABS control unit prior to hitting the powertrain controller.

 

 

 

 

To add to this confusion, the speed signal from the ABS (and to the Speedo) is a simple 0-5v block pulse signal and is present when the left rear signal is working.

Can only see that the ecu can do funny things without this VSS speed signal present (anti tampering prevention.), but let's see what others find on the dyno. (Don't know the VXT ecu.)

 

 

Edited by Exmantaa, 23 March 2017 - 06:30 PM.

[ditonics]

When you going to stage 4 then ?

Will stage 4 require the car to be tied down by the door pins and the bonnet release? 🤣🤣🤣

[P11 COV]

The lack of an ABS fuse will upset the ECU as I found on a trip to the south of France. On the Turbo it causes a loss of power/misfire. Not all the time but every now and again and can be reset with a quick on off of the ignition...for a while.

 

Not sure what the effect is on the N/A - something more terminal?  I can't remember.

[jim61]

When you going to stage 4 then ?

Will stage 4 require the car to be tied down by the door pins and the bonnet release? 🤣🤣🤣

Surely stage 4 needs to be firmly restrained by the door mirrors as well 😀😁

[chickendippers]

When you going to stage 4 then ?

Will stage 4 require the car to be tied down by the door pins and the bonnet release? 🤣🤣🤣

Surely stage 4 needs to be firmly restrained by the door mirrors as well 😀😁

Yup, and the gearstick!

[ditonics]

When you going to stage 4 then ?

Will stage 4 require the car to be tied down by the door pins and the bonnet release? 🤣🤣🤣

Surely stage 4 needs to be firmly restrained by the door mirrors as well 😀😁

Yup, and the gearstick!

Stage 5 you have to have the left window open and only tie down with the heater knob.

[Mushter]

I would have an issue using that method I think. My left heater knob is seized up at the moment so I couldn't use that. The middle one just spins and would fall off if I attempted a tie down on that. The right hand one does turn but doesn't appear to do anything and I'm too frightened to investigate why. I would remove the rear light lenses (there are many posts regarding how to do that successfully on here) then wrap a couple of pieces of baling twine, you know, the red stuff they use for hay bales, around both indicator bulbs and use that to hold my car in place for a full power dyno run. Seriously though Lord Ragnar, I'm glad you got everything sorted but, jeez, door striker pins!!! Get out and drive the bugger now. Cheers, Jon.

[chickendippers]

 

 

 

 

When you going to stage 4 then ?

Will stage 4 require the car to be tied down by the door pins and the bonnet release? 🤣🤣🤣

Surely stage 4 needs to be firmly restrained by the door mirrors as well 😀😁

Yup, and the gearstick!

Stage 5 you have to have the left window open and only tie down with the heater knob.

 

Nope, stage 5 involves tying it down by the spokes of the rear wheels