156 replies to this topic

[Buchos]

...so looks like im going to need to get to the ignition barrel.
Have you checked it with an oscilloscope (or even just a multimeter)?

Shall I bring in the machine that goes 'PING!'

[Guy182]

does the launch control sound like this?? or is this the type that cuts the spark instead of injectors?

[c_w]

does the launch control sound like this?? or is this the type that cuts the spark instead of injectors?

Yes it's like that, but you have to have a loud exhaust to make it sound like that.

[Guy182]

buchos.. can you list the VXturbo colours for the wires? also what you done re: the clutch pedal switch for the full throttle shift?? just paid for my unit, would be a great help

[Buchos]

buchos..
can you list the VXturbo colours for the wires?
also what you done re: the clutch pedal switch for the full throttle shift??
just paid for my unit, would be a great help

Havn't tried the launch control yet, though there is a switch already there.

Wire colours:

Racelogic - VX220t

Red - Injector1 brn/red
Orange - Injector2 brn/blu
Grey - Injector3 brn/grn
Green - Injector4 brn/yel

Front Left - ABS yellow
Front Right - ABS grey
Rear Left - ABS violet
Rear Right - ABS red

I cut the injector wires within the plastic cable rail above the injectors, you can just see my additional loom coming out the left side of it:


I cut into the ABS loom just below the ABS controller (got a nice 4 channel 111R/VXR/Exige controller from ebay for £50 last week)


I brought the diagnostic plug into the front area and it velcros up under the wiper motor cover out of the way.

[manus]

The racelogic system is great provided you're ECU doesn't detect a hard engine cut, at which point you'll go onto two or three cylinders (The ECU is detecting for misfires so when the traction control cuts the cylinders the ECU thinks its a failure so it cuts the injector to save against cylinder damage). No problem switch the engine off and restart and the ECU resets, however you'll have to go to a Vauxhall garage to have the fault code removed which is just a reset on the comm. Its only a problem when youre doing track days with very tight hairpins I found.

You can reprogramme the ECU to stop the detection altogether but i got round it by adjusting the levels.

Has anyone else experiened similar problems? and would fitting the VXR wheel sensors help?

Cheers
Ian

I'll fit dedicated wheel sensors in February. The Racelogic sensors have a very small tolerance (1mm) so I'll follow someone's advice and try Hall "Wheel speed sensors for gear tooth" sensors on all wheels:
Supply voltage: 4.5-24 V DC
Supply current: 10mA (typ.) 20mA (max)
Output signal type: Sink
Maximum operating frequency: 100 kHz
Sensing distance: From 0.5 to 4 mm (have been told the work with some angle)
Operating temperature range: From -40 to +150 C
The output of these sensors can be fed into the Racelogic-TC no problem. Not sure how the sensors can be mounted close to the wheels. All the advice anyone can give me (with some pictures ) is very welcome!

Think switching to dedicated sensors will solve 2 problems with the current set-up feeding the TC from the ABS wiring:
Problem A: TC Signal noise at low speed (up to 15-20MpH)
problem B: ABS switches OFF with errors "ABS DTC C0045 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction" and "ABS DTC C0050 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction" every time the car exceeds 120MpH .
Problem A I can live with, setting the threshold for TC at the appropriate level. Dedicated sensors will give clean signals from the first movement of the car at any speed.
Problem B is unacceptable for me to handle specially since the brake bias of my car is very aggressive at the back and I need ABS to balance. Removing the additional wiring will get the ABS circuits back to as-it-was-before.
I'll post the results on this forum.

The dedicated sensors won't solve the engine cuts ECU detection problem. Updating the ECU is the only way.

[Guy182]

I've spoke to courtenays and they are adjusting the settings in my ECU to not flag up when it detects the misfire. onyl downside they said is if the coilpack went it wouldnt warn me.. but would be pretty obvious anyway. thanks for pics buchos where have you mounted the control unit on yours?

[Guy182]

The racelogic system is great provided you're ECU doesn't detect a hard engine cut, at which point you'll go onto two or three cylinders (The ECU is detecting for misfires so when the traction control cuts the cylinders the ECU thinks its a failure so it cuts the injector to save against cylinder damage). No problem switch the engine off and restart and the ECU resets, however you'll have to go to a Vauxhall garage to have the fault code removed which is just a reset on the comm. Its only a problem when youre doing track days with very tight hairpins I found.

You can reprogramme the ECU to stop the detection altogether but i got round it by adjusting the levels.

Has anyone else experiened similar problems? and would fitting the VXR wheel sensors help?

Cheers
Ian

I'll fit dedicated wheel sensors in February. The Racelogic sensors have a very small tolerance (1mm) so I'll follow someone's advice and try Hall "Wheel speed sensors for gear tooth" sensors on all wheels:
Supply voltage: 4.5-24 V DC
Supply current: 10mA (typ.) 20mA (max)
Output signal type: Sink
Maximum operating frequency: 100 kHz
Sensing distance: From 0.5 to 4 mm (have been told the work with some angle)
Operating temperature range: From -40 to +150 C
The output of these sensors can be fed into the Racelogic-TC no problem. Not sure how the sensors can be mounted close to the wheels. All the advice anyone can give me (with some pictures ) is very welcome!

Think switching to dedicated sensors will solve 2 problems with the current set-up feeding the TC from the ABS wiring:
Problem A: TC Signal noise at low speed (up to 15-20MpH)
problem B: ABS switches OFF with errors "ABS DTC C0045 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction" and "ABS DTC C0050 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction" every time the car exceeds 120MpH .
Problem A I can live with, setting the threshold for TC at the appropriate level. Dedicated sensors will give clean signals from the first movement of the car at any speed.
Problem B is unacceptable for me to handle specially since the brake bias of my car is very aggressive at the back and I need ABS to balance. Removing the additional wiring will get the ABS circuits back to as-it-was-before.
I'll post the results on this forum.

The dedicated sensors won't solve the engine cuts ECU detection problem. Updating the ECU is the only way.

you sure you havent got poor electrical connections??

dry joint where you have soldered?

[Buchos]

where have you mounted the control unit on yours?

Its velcro'd under the dash on the pasenger side, between the cable access to the bonnet area and cable access to the dash.

[Guy182]

ok thanks best get myself some anaconda/spiral wrap

[manus]

you sure you havent got poor electrical connections??

dry joint where you have soldered?

Yes. connections are perfect.

Received some mail/PM the other day. It seems I'm not the only one with high-speed TC/ABS problems.

[Guy182]

you sure you havent got poor electrical connections??

dry joint where you have soldered?

Yes. connections are perfect.

Received some mail/PM the other day. It seems I'm not the only one with high-speed TC/ABS problems.

is this a problem with the racelogic TC??

i have a kit coming next week.. dont want to have problems

[manus]

is this a problem with the racelogic TC??

i have a kit coming next week.. dont want to have problems

Because I'm not the only one having a problem at high-speed with TC-ABS does not mean that the TC is the problem. Not figured it out completely. Problem started after fitting the TC (RaceLogic). It is likely that any circuit added to the ABS sensor-system may have some impact on the ABS.
Could be a combination of other systems/add-ons in my car or a general electric problem? Could be I'm not using the proper wiring? Could be my ABS-unit has a problem? Could be that my small race-type battery gives voltage-regulation problems?

Switching to dedicated TC wheel-sensors will eliminate the TC-wiring being the cause of this problem for ABS to stop. If the problem remains I have another fault somewhere. Either way, I'll post the results on the forum.
In two weeks time I know for sure.

[Lozz]

I have a racelogic TC, setup by the previous owner or possibly regal and have neither of the problems you've mentioned. Sadly this woun't help you solve your problem.

[Guy182]

My TC arrived today. looks like I am going to have to order a load of cable to extend a loom to the fuel injector cut?? will have to try and work out what size it is. you sorted the clutch switch yet buchos??

[Buchos]

you sorted the clutch switch yet buchos??

Havn't even looked at it, it's not high on my todo list. Maybe I'll wait and see how you get on

[Guy182]

did you have to extend all your fuel injection wires?

[Buchos]

did you have to extend all your fuel injection wires?

I broke one wire on each injector and I used a multicore cable with 5 pairs, 4 pairs for the injectors.

Luckily the car is so small its only about 2m of cable.

[Guy182]

did you have to extend all your fuel injection wires?

I broke one wire on each injector and I used a multicore cable with 5 pairs, 4 pairs for the injectors.

Luckily the car is so small its only about 2m of cable.

we got some 8 or 11 core at work I think

few other Q's if you will.. how did you mount the digi adjuster in the dash plate?

have you had to tie aload of cables up out the way for the diagnostic lead -> digi adjuster etc? quick look at the kit and it sems as though i have to connect the 3 wires for the slip adjuster, and then the rs232 from the digi adjuster, to the female rs232 -> white connector B on the racelogic unit.

did you take the top of your dash off to fit it all?

Edited by Guy182, 11 February 2008 - 09:33 PM.

[Buchos]

few other Q's if you will.. how did you mount the digi adjuster in the dash plate?
have you had to tie aload of cables up out the way for the diagnostic lead -> digi adjuster etc? quick look at the kit and it sems as though i have to connect the 3 wires for the slip adjuster, and then the rs232 from the digi adjuster, to the female rs232 -> white connector B on the racelogic unit.
did you take the top of your dash off to fit it all?

I took the dash top off, as its easy to do (my facia was held on with velcro). To the right of the VX220 logo there is a space, flat piece and space again. I removed the flat piece highlighted in the picture.

I used a piece of right angle aluminum with slots cut to provide adjustment and the adjuster is velro'd onto that. The adjuster is not supported by the facia at all, in previous pictures you can see two plastic bits bonded to the inside of the facia, these are to hold the facia in place, not the adjuster.



I'm at work, so I don't have any pictures of the actual thing, but hopefully you get it from the drawing above.

I took the diagnostic lead out under the bonnet and also the digi-adjuster lead and plugged them together there, so they are easy to get at when connecting a laptop to the system.