200 replies to this topic

[Jameshs]

I am ideally looking for around the 230bhp mark but dont really want to spend more than £3K? Is that possible.

I think i might go for the stage 2 cams then and while the head is off get it flowed. Dont really want to touch the bottom end though other than removing the balencing shalfs. Does that really make any difference??

to get that sort of power you will need;

webcon throttle bodies kit + stage 5 mapping (stage 1 or stage 3 map supplied with tms kit)
2.5" exhaust system + sports cat + '4-2-1 or 4-1' manifold
+1mm stage 3 head + stage 2 cams
balancer delete + underdrive crank pulley

the beauty of tuning a normally aspirated engine is you can do it in stages rather than spend thousands all at once

I think i will start with the headwork then, will the stage 3 head run on standard managment?

[vocky]

if you already have an exhaust and do most of the work yourself it could be done for around £3k the most expensive part is the throttle body kit at £1850, but it's worth it ask Techieboy what he thought of my vx

[vocky]

I think i will start with the headwork then, will the stage 3 head run on standard managment?

it sure will

[Jameshs]

I think i will start with the headwork then, will the stage 3 head run on standard managment?

it sure will

What part of the headwork can be done by myself?

[techieboy]

ask Techieboy what he thought of my vx

Oh yes! Fantastic results on Vocky's car. Seems to pull like a train from 2000rpm and then almost feels like a second cam comes in at around 5,800rpm as it gets a whole new lust for the redline. Instant response from the now cable operated pedal. I've no doubt if the engine could cope with 8,000rpm the throttle bodies would still be delivering useful amounts of power upto the mid/high 7k rpm. Didn't feel like there was any kind of flatspot (like the rest of us are familiar with) and I'm sure one of the main factors is the increased mapping flexibility of the replacement ECU and being able to properly map the fuel delivery, not just tinkering around the edges like the standard ECU.

Really is a bit of bargain when you take the throttle bodies and new ECU into consideration. It's quite a lot of kit for the money. Not sure what it's ultimately going to be able to deliver, power wise, but I guess after Vocky has completed this phase of his rebuild, we'll have a better idea.

[MaDFreeBiRD]

i would actually love to buy the TB's now, it was only on Saturday i found out they come with a standalone mapped ECU! It is fairly good value for money then, i cant imagine it is ovely hard to fit TB's surely the hardest bit is the cable throttle? Vocky i do hope to see your car at a meet somewhere maybe try and get a cheecky pax ride to see how that things goes!

[NickB787]

Balance shafts can't be done with the engine in place, unless the subframe is off.

I will let you know about that, I think it may be possible.

[Jameshs]

Balance shafts can't be done with the engine in place, unless the subframe is off.

I will let you know about that, I think it may be possible.

Keep us posted

[Muncher]

I'll buy you a pint if you can I looked at if for quite some time with the covers off and the clam off, raising and lowering the engine and couldn't get even close. The only way that it could be done would be to withraw the shaft a couple of inches, cut a section off and repeat about 3 times. They're hardened steal so would take something serious to cut and then you'd get swarf everywhere. Then you'd have to press the bearings back into the block which could only be done with about 6 lengths of bar, but then you couldn't get a hammer on it...

[Muncher]

With the rods and pistons changed, everything else is rated up to 300bhp. Assuming the supercharger can produce enough pressure, and the chargecooler can cool that air, what's stopping you hitting 300bhp, or am I missing something fundamental?

[techieboy]

Might need the piggyback ECU to control the fuelling to reach that level. Plus (I'd guess) uprated injectors, a presumably smaller pulley on the supercharger and the mythical 3" 2Bular exhaust system.

[NickB787]

I'll buy you a pint if you can I looked at if for quite some time with the covers off and the clam off, raising and lowering the engine and couldn't get even close. The only way that it could be done would be to withraw the shaft a couple of inches, cut a section off and repeat about 3 times. They're hardened steal so would take something serious to cut and then you'd get swarf everywhere. Then you'd have to press the bearings back into the block which could only be done with about 6 lengths of bar, but then you couldn't get a hammer on it...

I thought Vocky reckoned they were not that tough, I was going to cut a hole the diameter of the shaft in some metal sheet and feed the shaft through and then cut it off. I would have thought a few cuts would do it and the metal would prevent any crap getting into bits you don't want it.

I was wondering about putting a socket on the bearing to be pushed in and marking how far it is required to go and then use a jack between the socket bar and the sub frame.

Although because I have the 2 bits which push in (delete kit) that seal the oilways I didn't think that would be a big deal as not a lot of pressure would be required in comparrison to moving the bearing themselves.

[drpau]

and the mythical 3" 2Bular exhaust system.

Yeah, seems like these are a myth, an old wives tale.

[NickB787]

and the mythical 3" 2Bular exhaust system.

Yeah, seems like these are a myth, an old wives tale.

Don't mention that

[techieboy]

Don't mention that

I assume you've not had any more news?

[NickB787]

Don't mention that

I assume you've not had any more news?

Nothing I have tried for days to get him.

[Muncher]

Access will still be pretty limited like that, if you put a plate behind it and then some rag I think you'd probably make about six cuts. What then happens if the last chunk drops off inside? I think you'd need about five ratchet extensions to get the distance needed, so you have to assemble all of those without dropping any. Due to the amount of play in them getting the right them pushed in the right distance will be tricky. I concluded that after all that the risk of it going wrong was too high. If you start cutting the bar and for whatever reason have to stop you'll be needing the engine out to sort it.

[Jameshs]

Access will still be pretty limited like that, if you put a plate behind it and then some rag I think you'd probably make about six cuts. What then happens if the last chunk drops off inside? I think you'd need about five ratchet extensions to get the distance needed, so you have to assemble all of those without dropping any. Due to the amount of play in them getting the right them pushed in the right distance will be tricky. I concluded that after all that the risk of it going wrong was too high. If you start cutting the bar and for whatever reason have to stop you'll be needing the engine out to sort it.

Doesnt sound like a situation that i would like to be in

[Muncher]

I'm going to be ordering some bits from allecotec.com which I can get shipped back to the UK for next to nothing any should avoid the VAT (and duty if I'm lucky). Does anyone want anything from them while I'm at it?

[NickB787]

Access will still be pretty limited like that, if you put a plate behind it and then some rag I think you'd probably make about six cuts. What then happens if the last chunk drops off inside? I think you'd need about five ratchet extensions to get the distance needed, so you have to assemble all of those without dropping any. Due to the amount of play in them getting the right them pushed in the right distance will be tricky. I concluded that after all that the risk of it going wrong was too high. If you start cutting the bar and for whatever reason have to stop you'll be needing the engine out to sort it.

yea it could be a pain might just drop the engine then, why is life never simple with these cars?