200 replies to this topic

[speedster]

Looks nice vocky. I'm junking the coil pack and going the msd coil route...

[vocky]

Whats goes on the end though thats not covered?

the inlet cam uses the z22se blanking cover and today I made a cover for the exhaust cam

nothing fancy just a lump of 10mm alloy plate cut to shape and held on with a couple of M8 bolts.

I also tapped the oilway M10x1.5 and will fit a suitable grub screw to blank it off.

[alanoo]

So if you did some home made covers for it, why didn't you stay with the stock z22se valve cover ?

[vocky]

I have dwelled on various options for the camcover / exhaust bearing housing, but I've gone for a simple solution. 1, use a standard LSJ cam cover. 2, tap the oilway on the side of the head M10x1 to allow a suitable grub screw to blank off the ancillary oil supply. 3, fit a blanking cover to the exhaust cam housing, as per the inlet cam housing. 4, I will either get an alloy 'dummy' cam bearing/shaft made to fit into the bearing cap to seal off that oilway OR drill and tap the oilway to allow another grubscrew to seal it, but I haven't yet checked whether there is enough material to allow that.

Edited by vocky, 07 October 2008 - 12:03 PM.

[vocky]

there is plenty of material to drill and tap the oilway, so thats what I have done

[vocky]

my Supertech double valve springs arrived from the states

they don't need any machining to fit either

[mandarinvx]

How do they work, is the inner one there in case of failiure of the outer spring The inner one looks like it's got too small csa to be of the same rating, or is it there as a 'helper' spring

[slindborg]

to make ONE spring stiff enough to prevent valve bounce at higher engine speeds the spring metal diameter would need to be larger meaning you get less compression before its coilbound (Think of it like suspension springs....) Using two you can slightly stiffen up the outer without compromising valve lift, and the inner can be made from much stiffer material and have less coils (less coils and stiffer spring on ONE would be unstable and wobbly). So all in you get stiffer springs without many compromises. Usually you need to machine the head or get different stem seals (and also different valve caps).

[vocky]

the head machining is required when the spring outer diameter is too big the supertech springs have plenty of clearance between the spring and the hydraulic lifter oil gallery There are many reasons why double valve springs are used, but as Slindborg has already said it's a good way to increase spring pressure without getting coil bind, plus if one spring snaps the valve won't hopefully smash the piston. Higher spring pressures are required to stop valve bounce at increased rpm levels and with throttle bodies the higher the engine revs the higher horsepower potential of the engine

[vocky]

not much progress to report, just slipped the engine out and stripped it down ready for the machine shop

Edited by vocky, 26 October 2008 - 07:52 AM.

[vocky]

I've made a new backing plate for the throttle bodies air filter, so now the new longer trumpets have a perfect air tight seal and the air filter is also centralised on the trumpets, it normally has to be offset to avoid the coolant pipe but now the filter is further away from the engine this is not required. hopefully I will be collecting the rebored block this week, also the crank/flywheel/clutch/crank pulley/rods/pistons should be balanced too once my valves arrive from the states the head will get machined, then hopefully I can get it all back together and running before the end of the month

[The Batman]

then get it dyno'd! awesome

[vocky]

I need to run it in first

[slindborg]

I need to run it in first

if you are a REAL man, you will have that done in under 100miles!!!


and please please please please take it to Track and Road in Rainham (essex) for a power run.... I want to see a REAL fully data'd up run of it

[The Batman]

even better just sell it to me

[vocky]

I collected the rebored block and balanced crank assembly the other day

Today's job was to rebuild the bottom end and refit it

That entailed fitting the Wiseco 11:1 CR pistons to my Eagle steel rods, fitting the new rings, then inserting the pistons into the freshly bored block

Then the crank was fitted along with the bearing craddle and new bolts. I fitted a new water pump and then the chain with the idler gears (I decided not to bother converting to the short chain method). Finally the sump and flywheel/clutch.

Last job was to slip the engine back in and refit the starter motor/ alternator /coolant pipes etc

[VIX]

[mandarinvx]

Last job was to slip the engine back

[RobNA]

[vocky]

Hmmm, throttle bodies



sorted out the wiring looms, so now they look factory fitted, not a good pic to see them