163 replies to this topic

[Exmantaa]

Try the key/immobiliser first, as I know of several "major ignition/fuelling defects " that magically cleared with the other key...

[slindborg]

Dave, after our little (long ) chat last night http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 1.pdf The coilpack is T1, check with a multimeter at Pin A (Brown wire with Black trace) that its getting 12V when cranking. then move along the loom to find where it changes to a Red wire with white trace (this will be near a connector that has a red wire with black trace for the fuel injectors, which you say are working). If there is 12V to that wire/pin then thats a good start You might want to see if you can get hold of an osiclliscope to ensure the engine is chucking out the spark on pins BDF and G. If you are getting 12V to the coil and the ign pulses are going to it, and still no spark/start, then its a dead coilpack or module. of course checking the spark will be a slag

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Dave, after our little (long ) chat last night

http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

The coilpack is T1, check with a multimeter at Pin A (Brown wire with Black trace) that its getting 12V when cranking. then move along the loom to find where it changes to a Red wire with white trace (this will be near a connector that has a red wire with black trace for the fuel injectors, which you say are working).

If there is 12V to that wire/pin then thats a good start
You might want to see if you can get hold of an osiclliscope to ensure the engine is chucking out the spark on pins BDF and G.

If you are getting 12V to the coil and the ign pulses are going to it, and still no spark/start, then its a dead coilpack or module.

of course checking the spark will be a slag

Stu, you are a legend, thanks.

I have Dave's car over tomorrow for the charge cooler rad fitting and a look over. I planned to try his coil pack on my car as a starter for 10, your info is most helpful.

If you are free tomorrow AM you are of course more than welcome to pop over to mine, tea provided by Mrs Cliffie, biscuits by Davemate...

[slindborg]

Dave, after our little (long ) chat last night

http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

The coilpack is T1, check with a multimeter at Pin A (Brown wire with Black trace) that its getting 12V when cranking. then move along the loom to find where it changes to a Red wire with white trace (this will be near a connector that has a red wire with black trace for the fuel injectors, which you say are working).

If there is 12V to that wire/pin then thats a good start
You might want to see if you can get hold of an osiclliscope to ensure the engine is chucking out the spark on pins BDF and G.

If you are getting 12V to the coil and the ign pulses are going to it, and still no spark/start, then its a dead coilpack or module.

of course checking the spark will be a slag

Stu, you are a legend, thanks.

I have Dave's car over tomorrow for the charge cooler rad fitting and a look over. I planned to try his coil pack on my car as a starter for 10, your info is most helpful.

If you are free tomorrow AM you are of course more than welcome to pop over to mine, tea provided by Mrs Cliffie, biscuits by Davemate...

Sorry, upto my nuts in RobNA's car tomorrow

Daves got my number if any random inspiration is needed.

[FLD]

My money is still on a weak or open terminal in the blue/black plugs in the wheel arch. Are we placing bets??

[Mike (Cliffie)]

As many "bets" as you like; gives me more options to check. Please bring them on.

[FLD]

I had problems with mine and it was the terminals in the blue plug behind the header tank. The ones from the body with the female terminal. Looked fine initially but on closer inspection the spring bit of a couple was slightly open. Levered it shut with a pin. Started fine then. The symptoms sound almost the same. OBD seemed to be a random number generator. The biggest culprit on mine was the wire in the corner. A thick brown /red I think. Fuel pump wire? Random I know but thats what it was. I also found that the two plugs were difficult to push fully home. The last mm was difficult but critical. If this pans out as OK then I'd suggest robbing the engine loom off yours and trying that. I know its a pain but my second guess would be wiring. My op-com is off to dave in case you need specific tests. You can check the signal from each engine sensor with this. Its a great tool.

[davemate]

The op-com arrived this morning, thanks for the lend With the clam off it will be a lot easier to check through it all I hope. It will be a wire I am sure, but which one will be interesting. After tracing the wires it is a mess in there now, and it will be good to tidy it all up. Having a working car to borrow bits from will help to narrow it all down. (swap keys and number plates, a dab of oppo and away!). It's been great the support, thanks slinborg for the chat and info last night, shame about the spoiler, tms one will be ordered at some point.

[FLD]

Fingers crossed. I'm holding out for the broom broom noise!

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Error code P-URACOCK. Guy who attemted to fit this had the temp sensor plug plugged into the crank sensor and the crank sensor plug not plugged into anything hence no spark. Lee spotted that within the first five minutes then spent the rest of the day putting the loom right. Joe managed to put the bolt into the SC manifold support bracket which was missing and fitted the dipstick that was in the boot. The car actually drove on to the trailer tonight.

[VXT Tim]

Have no personal interest in this at all but find myself checking this thread everytime I logon! Hooray Well done guys.

[davemate]

Cliffie beat me to the good news post. Yep it's running, after some excellent work from some excellent people it was finally up and running. Quite a few problems found: pulley flew out, alternator bolt was a potential disaster if it had been running, finger tightened wheel nuts, negative on battery not on there right, belt tensioner is shot, abs light on, injectors in wrong order, injector clips beyond repair, bits in the engine not connected, oil feed hand tightened on (put a dampener on it's first breath), cracked clam on headlight mount, and countless other bits that added up to a full day for cliffie, Joe, Lee and even a special guest from vocky (sorry I missed you while i was out gathering supplies). There are still a few things to do and to fix up (clam back on right, tensioner, look into why the handbrake is so high, and clutch bite point so high, some wiring, few more clips, new dipstick plus bracket, some road testing to see if it's all working in practice, fix cracked sill cover, get an mot), and then, maybe then it will be fully finished. A big thank you to all that have posted on here, and my great respect and deepest thanks to the guys today. The brief passenger ride in cliffie's car was fantastic and brought home all the wishes of "stick with it" and "it will be worth it in the end". It's running!!!!!!!!!

Edited by davemate, 04 September 2010 - 11:34 PM.

[davemate]

Oh and a binding brake calliper too to add to the growing to-do list...

[VXT Tim]

Bloody hell, who did the work pre .org help?

[siztenboots]

checked crankshaft sensor?

post #24 , do I win a prize ?

[FLD]

Awesome news matey. Glad its moving along a positive route now.

[Mike (Cliffie)]

checked crankshaft sensor?

post #24 , do I win a prize ?

That you do Steve.

Two tickets to Autosport International in January.

[davemate]

to add to the to do list, the brakes seem to need a long depress to come on and the parking light is constantly on the brakes havent been worn in yet, but dont seem very responcive dispite the fact it now has braded hoses... i am back at work now and wont get a day off for another 6 and a bit weeks, CMS are booked up solid for the next 5 weeks. does anyone know a good place i can take it that wont charge me millions of pounds but are relyable and can sort this? happy to leave it with a good .org member if anyone wants some work, willing to deliver the car a fair 'ol distance too! its really close to being finished and i cant wait. i took it for a cheeky spin on a private road (as i dont have an MOT, and therefore stupidly cant get tax either). it is awesome! the noise is great, but the 5.5k limit is a real shame! i am pleased that the sc whine isnt constant, but reminds you its there with the lightened flywheel it does spin up quickly and i need to be careful of the throttle when taking off. if anyone wants the work or can point me toward a good place, please do let me know.

[davemate]

to add to the to do list, the brakes seem to need a long depress to come on and the parking light is constantly on the brakes havent been worn in yet, but dont seem very responcive dispite the fact it now has braded hoses... i am back at work now and wont get a day off for another 6 and a bit weeks, CMS are booked up solid for the next 5 weeks. does anyone know a good place i can take it that wont charge me millions of pounds but are relyable and can sort this? happy to leave it with a good .org member if anyone wants some work, willing to deliver the car a fair 'ol distance too! its really close to being finished and i cant wait. i took it for a cheeky spin on a private road (as i dont have an MOT, and therefore stupidly cant get tax either). it is awesome! the noise is great, but the 5.5k limit is a real shame! i am pleased that the sc whine isnt constant, but reminds you its there with the lightened flywheel it does spin up quickly and i need to be careful of the throttle when taking off. if anyone wants the work or can point me toward a good place, please do let me know.

[The Batman]

You will need to bleed the brakes again Me and Vocky had to bleed my system 3/4 times in the end Then it was perfect