74 replies to this topic

[Acidpopstar]

Mine's on standard skinny 175 fronts and like I say no issues. Maybe as you mention the uprated suspension isn't a good match for them.

[Bumblebee]

Could the wrong/dodgy geo cause this? Just a thought

[chris_uk]

If they geo'd it to toe out at the back quite possibly. But nobody in their right mind would want the rears to toe out on a rwd car unless for a specific reason.

[ee601]

Yeah, I think geo, driver, track conditions are likely to be all fine. Something broke methinks... Apparently it felt as if the our side rear suddenly toed out p, giving some rear wheel steer. We'll know more once we get a chance to get the clam off. That's the biggest issue, financially, getting a new clam and rear light unit. Funny, several people make front clams and other bits for the vx, but nobody seems to make a rear clam.. No idea why...? So I can either have the damaged one repaired (expensive), or find a decent used one in one piece and have it sprayed (preferred option..) Anyone know of any being broken??

[Tony H]

Might be gone by now but worth asking:

http://www.vx220.org...-clam-vx220-na/

 

[Bumblebee]

Try pm'ing eliz of here as she brakes vx220's

[JamesC]

We'll know more once we get a chance to get the clam off. That's the biggest issue, financially, getting a new clam and rear light unit. Funny, several people make front clams and other bits for the vx, but nobody seems to make a rear clam.. No idea why...? So I can either have the damaged one repaired (expensive), or find a decent used one in one piece and have it sprayed (preferred option..)  

 

 

I believe the rear clams are slightly different on the N/A and Turbo, while the fronts are the same, I should imagine thats the reasoning behind it.

[ee601]

Might be gone by now but worth asking:
http://www.vx220.org...-clam-vx220-na/
 

Thanks Tony. Went a couple of weeks ago, already asked. Sod's law, would have been so perfect.

[Graeme Lambert]

Were the Bridgestone's new or old?

 

If the latter then they have no place as a reference as to how the car was handling on the 17inch wheels.

 

G

[TheRealVXed]

I track the NA in general on 17s (not bridgstones I add) and Gaz Gold Pros and find absolutely no issue with snap oversteer.  Also the toe links tend to snap mid corner rather than acellerating on the straight.  Mike's car (I am an eye and video witness) oversteered on the straight due to sudden loss of traction from one rear wheel having touched the white line on the outside of the track in the wet.  All I can think is that the lap before someone potentially hadn't dropped oil but by the time you came round again they had.

 

IMO any untoward noise on track should always be taken to the pits straight away to check all fixtures and fittings.  To me this sounds like an unfortunate incident that just happened and that's that.  Take what you can from it and move on.  In my experience and from frequenting this forum for many years there is no such thing as "classic VX snap oversteer" unless something breaks, or an area of significant low traction is hit by one or both rear wheels.  Hope you manage to get it fixed up and back in action soon

[Wolfstone]

Not sure if its o/s or n/s rear light you're after.  But there's a new n/s just been listed here:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3386794757

 

[ee601]

In case anyone's interested.... First a correction - the 17s we're wearing Toyo Proxes 4s, which I since discover are used by some of the drift boys to break traction at the rear... The Bridgestone tyres are probably perfectly good... Sorry. And, now we've got the clam off, everything is pointing to the right hand toe link inner nut not being tightened up. There's a YouTube video where an Elise exhibits almost identical behaviour - Except in this case the Elise toe link actually broke, but in our case the toe link is completely intact, just rather bent from the wheel in the impact after the failure, and with the inner locking nut spinning completely loose with most if the inner thread on the bar showing - a couple more turns and it would have come off completely. Which could have been much worse. Just thought I should clear that up... And thanks for the help people... Got most bits to repair now, just need a silver rear clam, but I'm working on it..!

[Bargi]

The rear toe link that you had only just replaced? Not good.

[ee601]

Yes. We left the under trays off and the inner toe link nuts only finger tight as the company doing the full geo would have to adjust them anyway. Seems they didn't tighten the right one properly - yet they paint marked it.... I doubt I'll be returning there for any more work. They previously sent the car back with one wheel with a couple of wheel nuts loose...

[Pidgeon]

Before any conclusions are formed, I fitted an EP toe link kit which loosened itself alarmingly between Birmingham and Le Mans.  I am not an engineer, but I know what's important and followed the fitting instructions and torque settings to the letter.....

 

[ee601]

Thanks Pidgeon. That's scarily interesting. Have you managed to get the link to stay tight since? What's the secret?

[ee601]

Actually, not wishing to cast any aspersions in any direction, my toe links were from Elise Shop, rather than Parts... They were developed in 24 hour racing apparently so should be pretty secure.......?

[siztenboots]

If it really concerns then arrange to send back the part to Yvo (Elise shop), I'm sure he will cover costs and its replacement so the damaged unit can be looked at.

 

If it was not tightened then the bar would rock across the threads and eventually metal fatigue.

 

 

[fiveoclock]

I had a set of Elise Shop toe links on my SC VX, fitted correctly, correct torque etc. and the right hand outer bolt snapped. ES told me they'd never had one go before and blamed it on a faulty bolt. It happened on a fast, smooth left hand corner (no kerb riding etc.). JG is still trying to get the stains out of his pants

[Pidgeon]

Mine are from Yvo, as I've corresponded with him upon the issue.  I overcame the loosening by overtightening.  I still have play in three ends, he has sent me some components to change but other priorities have taken over.

 

It is a fallacy that 'race proven' components are suitable for road use.  Race components will be checked far more frequently and crtical components appropriately lifed.