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How To Install A Supercharger To The Z22Se

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#1 chris_uk


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Posted 19 September 2010 - 08:29 PM

Supercharger Installation for Z22SE Engine

I am going to try guide you through the process of installing the Stage II Eaton M62 Supercharger to the Z22SE engine. Ill be concentrating on the VX220 version.

This guide isnt going to be an exact step by step guide, but more of a guideline.

Below is a list of pretty much everything you need to get so you can do the installation yourself, you may need the odd bolt or something that might have been forgotten on the list.

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Once you have got all your items from the list you need to make sure you have a decent set of tools, I would suggest that you get a couple of ratchet spanners as they are pretty handy at points of the build and would save you some time and skin.

OK so here goes:-

1. Disconnect the battery pop out the water bottle and use a 10mm spanner to remove the wire.
2. Remove the front lights you will need a 13mm spanner I think, the ratchet spanner works well here. (make sure all the wires are disconnected from the lights)
3. Remove the front clam so we can fit the pre-rad for the laminovas in the supercharger manifold.
4. Unclip the two hoses either side and let the water drain out of the system then remove the radiator cover. (you can leave the bonnet on for this to save re-aligning it later)
5. Mount the pre-rad, if you have the larger Pro Alloy one it sits directly under the original radiator and you will have to cut away part of what the radiator sits on.
6. Get some C-clips in 5mm or 6mm and attach the pre-rad to the radiator.
7. Install the charge cooler pipes through the sill, first thing we need to do take the black sill off the drivers side. (1 plastic screw at the front and one at the back on the side then just carefully prise the cover off)
8. Re-attach the radiator cover make sure you drill 2 holes in the side to accommodate the new pre-rad pipes sticking out the side.
9. We are now left with a hole under the sill, this makes it slightly easier to feed the pipes to the rear of the car, and you should be able to get your hands in the hole, if not just cut a bit of the fibreglass away until you can.
10. You now need to decide where you are going to drill your two holes for the pipes to pass through, I would suggest at this point you have a look around at some pictures and drill accordingly. (I couldnt tell you the exact size of the hole, but I suggest you try it on some cardboard or something like that to make sure its big enough for the grommet to sit in without it being squished, you need to make sure you can rotate the grommet in the hole so the pipe will go through easy.
11. Remove the parcel shelf by taking the passenger seat out completely and pull the drivers seat fully forward unscrew the plastic bolts dotted around (I removed the seatbelt runners at the top to make it easier)
12. Remove the rear clam just remember to loosen the top roll bar cover to make it easier if you have turbo vents, if not you can just angle the clam down and slide it under.
13. Thread the pipes through the sill when I did it I used a piece of 13mm plastic pipe and forced it down the sill through the foam, once it was in the other side I could see it from the hole in the sill, I drilled a hole in the plastic pipe and the chargecooler pipe and used a bit of washing line to tied them together, get someone to help you here as you need to push the pipe and you pull it through (use washing up liquid to help lubricate it) (if you have just 1 long piece of pipe dont cut it yet, push each end through to the back so you have a loop of pipe at the front)
14. Remove the ECU if you havent done this already you will need to drill out the security bolt (or find a bit that will fit) (put the ECU in a box and ship if off to Courtenay sport for mapping)
15. Remove the intake system whether its an aftermarket one or not it needs to go (put it to the side for later)
16. Remove the throttle body (4x 10mm bolts)
17. Remove the intake manifold (5x 10mm bolts / 2x 10mm nuts, slap some gaffa tape over the holes to stop anything going in the head)
18. Remove the fuel rail you will need to undo the 2x13mm bolts on the top and the 2x fuel lines before lifting the fuel rail off. (will be easier to loosen the fuel lines buy taking them off the head)
19. Remove Injectors same as the manifold now, gaffa tape the holes up to stop any nasty things from entering your engine. (keep the clips for later) Note* there is a little oring at the bottom of each injector, make sure they dont come off and end up in your engine.
20. Alternator Check you need to make sure you have a 100amp alternator for the supercharger to fit and you will also need a suppressor for the alternator. (you will have to grind down the positive feed bolt & nut so they dont foul the manifold so not to create a direct to earth contact (the manifold is metal and earthed, if you dont really know why this is significant I think you should of paid more attention in electronics class) You will need to fit the new belt pre-tensioner now as the 120mm bolts wont go in the holes when the alternator is mounted.
21. Undo a couple fuel line holders from the back of the clam, easier to hold them out of the way if they are easier to move.
22. Remove the EGR Valve and replace it with a blanking plate as the EGR is no longer needed, alternatively you can leave it in place but it does look worse, its entirely up to you.
23. Fit Supercharger manifold assuming the alternator is correct and the suppressor is fitted, can fit the mounting bracket for the manifold and fit the manifold permanently (the gasket needs to be modified, look at the supercharger build book for details). If you have bought 2nd hand mare sure the inlet is covered so nothing can drop down into the manifold. (WARNING* Make sure the live to the alternator is well away from the manifold)
24. Run one charge cooler pipe to the top of the manifold inlet (top is for water in / bottom is for water out) once the pipe is in and connected to the manifold you can go back to the front of the car and cut the pipe and connect it to the inlet of the pre-rad. The next pipe can be put onto the other outlet of the pre-rad and fed all the way through to the passenger side following the other pipe (under the manifold) (the pump goes on the end of this pipe so leave it long for now)
*if you are using the dual pass mod you will have to connect this to the centre pipe coming off the manifold but make sure the laminovas are set up for this.
*we are setting this up so the cold comes directly from the radiator and the warm goes to the header tank.

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The wiring isnt really that hard, there are only a couple of items to extend and the throttle body to re-wire.

1. Extent the 4 injector plugs
2. Extend the charcoal filter plug
3. Extend the MAP sensor
4. Extend the earth wire from the main ECU plug
5. Re-wire the throttle plug
6. Wire in charge cooler plug
7. Wire in relay for charge cooler
8. Install EGR cheater

Wiring: NOTE* Mount your ECU in the location you want and use that as a guide for how long your wires need to be! Try making it so the throttle body plug reaches the throttle body without the need to extend the wires.

*How to effectively solder your wires
• Strip about 5mm from the ends of the wires you want to join.
• Put the exposed wire into some flux (or rub on with your fingers)
• Get a bit of solder on your soldering iron and dab the exposed wire with flux and you will notice that the wire covers with solder very quick and easy.
• Do the same on the other wire
• Get a bit of solder on your soldering iron again, and put the 2 wires next to each other (facing each other) and pop a dab of solder on both wires, and you should have something that looks like this

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1. Extend the 4 Injector Plugs: Note* do these one at a time. Take your first plug off the injector and snip the plug off about 10mm back from the plug so you can still see the coloured wiring on the plug. Get your new plug and wire them up so when the plugs are in the same orientation as the original ones the wires match the same. Do this for all 4 injectors.
2. Extend the Charcoal Filter Plug: Snip the plug about 50mm from the plug so you have got space to join the wires back up. Run the cable along the back of the clam just underneath the window. You will need 2 wires for this, if you can colour code them its better for fault finding.
3. Extend the Map Sensor: Same as the charcoal filter here make sure you have enough wire so you can join them and just add enough wire to get the sensor to the manifold.
4. Extend the Earth Wire : This one is easy, just one wire to extend, mount this to earth, you can find the earth points by following the other wires or following the TIS guide
5. Rewire the Throttle body Plug: Quite simple job this one, just make sure you follow the instructions below, and please do this methodically as some wires are the same colour. If you look at the plug you will see it says A and D on the front and E and H on the back. It looks like this from the front of the plug with the purple thing looking at you. (You will need to remove this purple cover. *This doesnt need to be done if you are using the standard throttle body.
Wire A stays put
Wire B and H need swapping
Wire C and G need swapping
Wire D stays put
Wire E and F need swapping

Pin side Original: ..... ... Switched:

D C B A ..... ...... ....... D G H A
H G F E ..... ...... ....... B C E F

6. Wire in the Charge Cooler Pump : Easy one again this one, get your plug and pop 2 wires into it, make sure the length of the wires are quite long as its easier to cut them down rather than add wire on. One is + (permanent live) and one is (earth) mount the to any earth point on the chassis and the permanent live needs taking to the relay.
7. Wire in the Charge Cooler Relay : This is slightly more complex, first thing you have to do is find out where you are going to mount the relay, I put mine below the plastic header tank so I can have easy access to the 30amp fuse.
8. Install EGR cheater : We have to do this because the new supercharger manifold doesnt have a EGR pipe going to it, so what we do is install this cheater to make the engine think that its on and working when in fact its not on at all. (wiring diagram should come with the cheater) You can cut the plug off and hide the cheater in the loop to make it look better, but I left mine on just in case I ever needed to put it back on.

25. Remove top water pipe on top of the engine cam cover and move it to one side, this needs to be modified so it doesnt foul the s/c belt, just put an extension in the pie which should be enough and tie wrap out of the way.
26. Remove oil breather pipe from on top of the engine and move that to one side.
27. Fit the 2.0sc Throttle Body to the supercharger, the throttle body should come with a gasket if new, if 2nd hand you will need to order one. They are green with a little bit sticking off them. (if your using the standard TB you will need an adaptor plate)
28. Fit the supercharger onto the manifold this is so we can measure how far away we need to hold the pipes so they dont touch the belt when the engine is on. Tie wrap everything out of the way so youre happy with the clearance. (Dont forget the s/c to manifold gasket)
29. Trial fit throttle body plug to make sure you have enough cable, if not you will need to extend these as well, I mounted my ECU close enough so I didnt have to bother extending these wires, I suggest you try do the same.
30. Block the hole in the top of the supercharger by the plug and some tiger seal or use the old map sensor.
31. Fit the Brake vacuum hose to the supercharger
32. A. Block the hole from the throttle body, and leave the stiff black pipe open to atmosphere or
B. Connect the pipe on the throttle body to the stiff black pipe that came off the original manifold
33. Fit the map sensor to the manifold, you will need to put a little tiger seal around the orange plug because its a little loose in the manifold, get a bracket to hold the sensor in place.
34. Install 4 new injectors (which should have 4 holes at the end in the shape of a diamond/square, original only had 2) to the fuel rail, clip them on with the clips you took off to start with. (they should all be at an angle if the clips are on properly)
35. Fit the fuel rail complete with injectors to the block.
36. Connect the vacuum pipe to the manifold, the pipe that goes from the end of the fuel rail to the top of the s/c manifold.
37. Connect the water pipe back onto the top of the engine and make note of how much clearance there is between the belt. *make sure this pipe cant rest on the belt
38. Connect the oil breather pipe back onto the top of the engine, what I did was run the pipe through to the underside of the clam and put a filter on it there, looks more OEM.
39. Fit charge cooler pump on the end of the pipe that you brought through from under the manifold, you will need to cut this pipe to use on the rest of the system, so find a nice spot for the pump and get the lengths right and cut the pipe, fit the pump and keep the rest of the pipe for later. You can plug the wires in the pump now if you wish.
40. Fit the header tank so we can sort the lengths of pipe out, run one pipe from the outlet of the manifold to the top of the header tank and one from the bottom of the header tank to the pump.
* if you are using the duel pass mod you will need to connect both the top and the bottom pipes from the manifold together via a Y connector then it goes to the top of the header tank like before.
41. Modify your intake pipe to take the sensor that was on the original one (unless you have an aftermarket intake system)
42. Fit your intake pipe once youre happy that you have got all the piping to the pump and wiring to the pump sorted.
43. Connect the injector wires
44. Connect the map sensor plug
45. Connect the throttle body plug
46. Connect the charcoal filter plug
47. Fit the drive belt to the engine, there are a couple of ways to do this, I slacken off the new pre-tensioner and the supercharger and you can get it on without having to exert too much force, if you do it this way make sure you bolt the charger down then the pre-tensioner. NOTE* when tightening it back up make sure you tighten the supercharger down before you tighten the pre-tensioner.
48. Fill the header tanks with water so when you test for leaks you are not throwing coolant away if there is a leak.
49. Re-connect the battery
50. Double check everything we have done so far, make sure connections are good on the wiring, and there is nothing touching any moving components.
51. Start the engine to make sure everything runs properly and so you can easily sort out any leaks from the chargecooler pipes that you may have.
52. Refit everything like clams, lights etc etc Im not going into details about all that tho.

Hopefully following this guide will have helped you install the supercharger to the z22se engine, I may of missed things off or done things different, but as far as Im aware nothing has been missed that is of vital importance.

Note1* Courtenay are now putting a rev limit on the ECUs of 5500rpm.
Note2* The engine will rev erratically to start with but leave it to settle down and after a couple starts it will be fine.
Note3* The engine will still take a minute or two to warm up so please dont go thrashing it from cold.

Most Important Note* I take absolutely zero responsibility for anything you do to your car, this is a guide and with guides you need common sense. I also have done this guide from memory and its been a couple months since I did it so I might of got something wrong.

Edited by techieboy, 09 January 2014 - 03:16 PM.

#2 lego_man



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Posted 19 September 2010 - 08:49 PM

Awesome, thanks so much...! thumbsup

#3 chris_uk


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Posted 19 September 2010 - 10:15 PM

i dont know if this wants making a sticky for now.. thumbsup

#4 TheRealVXed



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Posted 20 September 2010 - 08:48 AM

You are a legend. That guide is excellent! Thank you!! Only one little thing would be a bit more information on how/where to source all the bits. Top work thumbsup

#5 14500rpm


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Posted 20 September 2010 - 09:57 AM

Thanks for the guide, could you/someone attach it to the post though? I never have any luck downloading stuff from Rapidshits and the file size looks like it shouldn't be a problem for the forum uploader (assuming it works?)

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#6 zimmer


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Posted 20 September 2010 - 10:19 AM

Nice one Chris, thanks for taking the time to do this - top job thumbsup

#7 techieboy


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Posted 20 September 2010 - 10:27 AM

Thanks for the guide, could you/someone attach it to the post though? I never have any luck downloading stuff from Rapidshits and the file size looks like it shouldn't be a problem for the forum uploader

Use the print button or download button at the bottom of the thread (where all the share with stuff is)?

#8 14500rpm


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Posted 20 September 2010 - 11:01 AM

Managed to get it off Rapidshare, I've made a .pdf of it and attached it here too...

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#9 james141



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Posted 20 September 2010 - 12:55 PM

Nice work chris! :)

#10 FLD



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Posted 20 September 2010 - 01:20 PM

Nice work there.

#11 chris_uk


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Posted 20 September 2010 - 02:40 PM

no worries lads. just hope it helps.

#12 Denthrax


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Posted 21 September 2010 - 09:00 AM

Thanks, nice work! Will help me greatly the next couple of weekends thumbsup

#13 hutchy


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Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:30 AM

Great post, truly thanks a lot. Making it sound scarily simple and now I want a go... I imagine it's the same as all guides though and in practice (ie rusted bolts) it would be much more tricky. Where do people source the bits? Buy new or ebay or elsewhere? I'm heading to the states in 2 months and may now end up with a s/c as hand luggage!

#14 chris_uk


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Posted 26 September 2010 - 10:37 AM

i think most get it all from allecotec

#15 Denthrax


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Posted 07 November 2010 - 03:10 PM

Quick question! Where do you connect the wires of the temperature sensor that comes with the Courtenay 'kit' ?

#16 chris_uk


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Posted 07 November 2010 - 03:28 PM

i didnt bother as i operate my fan through my scanguage.

#17 G-Bob


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Posted 01 July 2011 - 09:25 AM

Holy thread resurection batman. Chris, Is this a Stage2 setup or is the stage2 part only the exhaust and manifold?

#18 smiley


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Posted 01 July 2011 - 09:01 PM

Stage 1 = no cooling for the manifold at all (and once the air get's hot by blatting it, you easily loose 30/40 bhp) Stage 2 = SC with charge cooler. Stage > 2 = all the other stuff. chinky chinky

#19 chris_uk


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Posted 01 July 2011 - 11:54 PM

its a stage 2 i think that the charge cooler and exhaust are stage 2, 260 ish bhp.

#20 Bargi


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Posted 02 July 2011 - 12:31 AM

its a stage 2

i think that the charge cooler and exhaust are stage 2, 260 ish bhp.

Stage X is just something people like to align certain mods with, there's many different ways to get to X BHP

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